Belize in a Breeze

I grabbed my hat firmly as we blasted around the corner from Congrejo Flats into one of the east-west running fingers near Ambergris Caye locally known as the Seven Channels. Gilberto Acosta, at the wheel of his 23-foot panga fishing boat, opened the throttle on the 50-horsepower outboard.

My eyes feasted on the surrounding beauty, a translucent world in shades of turquoise. As we approached stretches with a sandy bottom, the color transformed into an incredibly vivid viridian hue. My hypnotic gaze ended only when a small spray of water dampened my face, the coolness awakening me to the reality of Belize, a country with waters still largely innocent and majestic.

This chunk of Central America coastline off northern Belize pulsated with marine life. Every few hundred yards I witnessed colossal schools of bonefish zipping over the flats. For every turn we made through the red mangroves, a cloud of mullet would thrash about until the clamor muddied the water. I watched a leopard ray soar into the air as if aiming for the clouds; it splashed back to its watery world with a resounding belly smack. Overhead, great squadrons of eagle-eyed birds glided until making dive-bombing runs, and seldom did one leave with empty talons.

Winds gusted 15 to 25 knots – typical during the spring dry season off Ambergris Caye. The thermometer seemed to stay in the low 80s each day, and though the stiff breeze made it a challenge to cast at times, any cursing came with the appreciation that the wind also suppressed insect activity, which during summer months can be problematic near the subtropical shorelines.

Fortunately, Bob, the guide master at El Pescador Resort, put me in the capable hands of Gilberto Acosta and Cesar, his 19-year-old son. Gilberto, a veteran of 27 years guiding Ambergris Caye and surrounding areas, also teaches fly fishing; Cesar guides too. I asked if we could all fish together, and father and son smiled simultaneously, making it clear that they wouldn’t argue a bit over that idea.