Blistering Baja And The Cool Sea Of Cortez |
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Blistering Baja And The Cool Sea Of Cortez
Out here, adrenaline-filled Pacific sailfish hover among shimmering bait-balls. Ebony depths saturated with brilliant phosphorescence illuminate nighttime wakes. This is Baja. This is the famed Sea of Cortez. The ocean bursts with life, life, and more life. Fishing the Baja Peninsula became a permanent part of my DNA on the first visit – and it’s much the same with one and all. Wherever your angling travels take you around the globe, once you get a taste of Baja, you will always compare the fish you land to the monsters you pulled out of the striking Sea of Cortez. Even though this fertile sea has been over-fished by the nation’s commercial fleet and is in need of more protective measures, prized roosterfish, neon-painted dorado, tuna, sailfish and members of the marlin family continue to abound here in generous numbers. The size, the strength, the sheer determination of these fish will stay with you forever. My indoctrination took place the moment I set foot on the pristine beach stretching from Cabo San Lucas up the East Cape to La Paz. I witnessed frequent showers of fleeing baitfish exploding within a few hundred feet of shore. I looked more intently as waves rolled in, noticing schools of helpless sardines desperately seeking refuge from the ever-present predators. With this much of a baitfish resource, it became ridiculously obvious to any observer that fishing prospects would be sky high.  Roosterfish not only look exotic, they fight like an animal twice their actual size. Most are encountered near-shore while trolling or casting around rocky outcroppings. Indeed, year after year, I’d heard about the awesome fishing in Baja and I wanted the thrill of going toe to fin with huge roosterfish in the surf of the East Cape. When I read about a few intrepid anglers catching monster fish, including striped marlin, while riding bareback on a sit-on-top kayak, I had to experience that adventure. And when my wife discovered that Baja is loaded with a number of great resorts with world-class spa facilities, she became a willing adventure partner. We reserved airline tickets and a room at the Rancho Leonero Resort. My research clearly indicated that it’s the sea that makes this region so spectacular. An arm of the Pacific Ocean, the Sea of Cortez stretches over 700 miles and spreads to 130 miles wide. The Imperial Valley of California and the Salton Sea were once part of this vast gulf. The sea’s floor descends from the north to the south, with the greatest depths exceeding 8,000 feet. Ray Cannon, a writer from California who wrote about Baja for decades, called the region a giant fish trap. With a distinct funnel shape, Cortez houses resident species in staggering numbers and attracts seasonal pelagic species seldom seen in the same waters elsewhere on Planet Earth. Cannon spoke of intense white-water action where baitfish and predators collide in huge traffic jams. It’s common to see the surface erupt in a frothy fury, glistening with sparkling scales. Carnivorous birds add to the excitement via relentless attacks from skyward. Before the feeding frenzy ends, huge bait-balls reduce to mere memories. The Sea of Cortez’s steep slopes become most prevalent at Pulmo Shoals near East Cape. Here, the depth is approximately 10 fathoms 100 yards from shore. Venture out another half mile and it drops to 100 fathoms. Another half mile and the ocean floor disappears to more than a mile below. Highly sought-after yellowfin tuna, accompanied by their close cousins the always-welcome skipjack, visit these near-shore perimeters on a daily basis to feed along the sharp underwater cliffs where they gorge on sardines, flying fish, caballitos, anchovies, and the odd-looking bearded goatfish. I couldn’t quite assuage my angst when arriving at the Baja Peninsula. Do I charge full-steam ahead at billfish and shoot straight for Cabo, the self-proclaimed marlin capital of the world, or spend time inshore going up against battalions of combative roosterfish and powerful pargo? The latter foe intrigues me, representing Mexico’s version of an overgrown red snapper with a very bad attitude. Those more daring can even kayak fish for blue-water species that can weigh many more times than the boat and angler put together. All in all, about 850 species of fish ply the waters of the Sea of Cortez, and I hear them all screaming my name. Rooster RaidingI shouted to Capt. Israel Ariza, the skipper of the super panga Cuyuy, “Hey, we better start chasing this fish. I’m getting smoked!” I looked down in disbelief as 20-pound monofilament melted off my reel into the turquoise water at an alarming pace. Even with a tight drag setting, I lost line at a breakneck rate. The identity of this brutish animal heading straight out to sea: A prized pez gallo – a roosterfish, also known locally as the Baja Basher. Roosterfish look like rugby balls on steroids, and are energized members of the jack family that reside along the Pacific Rim from Baja to Panama. Like many of its close cousins, the basic coloration of roosterfish is grayish-blue with a green tint on top with silver sides. Roosters sport very pronounced, dark-gray bands that run down the sides of the fish like a proud warrior’s battle paint. The most distinctive feature is its dorsal fin. The seven comb-shaped spines feel soft and velvety to the touch. When excited, roosters defiantly thrust their dorsals into the air in an intimidating posture. Typical at many foreign ports, primitive wooden rowboats powered by rusty kickers collect sardines offshore of La Ribera, just south of Rancho Leonero, and sell the precious live baits to passing pangas and cruisers at $5 per dozen. Ariza purchased three dozen sardines before making a sharp U-turn and heading straight for shore. Bait busted all around us as I saw the distinctive combs of three big roosters slicing through the surface just feet from the beach. As we witnessed them corralling frantic sardines and driving them into the shallows, one terrified baitfish literally threw itself onto the beach through the three-foot surf. An intent rooster leaped onto the sand, snatched the doomed baitfish, and launched itself back into the sea. I’ll never forget it. 
Hundreds of great ambush points exist along the shores of the Sea of Cortez, and I believe we were fishing one of the very best. The action turned fast and furious as I released five roosterfish including a double-header to end the day. Yet this is quite typical of the great Baja roosterfishing when bait stays plentiful. After all the pumping-and-winding with roosters, I slept very well that first night. While my wife and I enjoyed a pleasant dinner at Rancho Leonero after the eventful day of inshore fishing, our eyes focusing on a kayak fisherman not 50 feet from the beach. He pulled a four-foot bull dorado aboard in only 10 feet of water. Getting HereReaching Baja is relatively easy. Numerous daily flights arrive at the international airport in San Jose Del Cabo, including direct flights in many cases. Service includes Aeroexo/Aviacsa, Aerolitorial, AeroMexico, Aero California, Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, America West, Delta and Mexicana. SunTrips (800-786-8747, www.suntrips.com) combines round-trip air between Oakland, CA and Los Cabos with three nights hotel accommodations beginning at $430. Considering that round-trip airfare alone to Los Cabos can cost $400 or more, that’s a good deal. Of course, check with the airlines for latest packages and rates. We usually fly to San Jose Del Cabo from Chicago with a brief stopover in Dallas. As many of the resort services provide airport transfers as part of their fishing package, Rancho Leonero where we stay arranges for a taxi. The 45-minute, rustic ride to the East Cape relaxes us – it’s all pretty laidback. On one occasion, five cows looked at us blankly as they stood in the middle of the dirt road that turns into Rancho – the taxi driver just shooed them away.
As in many lands, be careful regarding consumption of tap water, fruits, vegetables and other such things. Even though many resorts and established restaurants utilize water-filtration systems, why take the chance? I stick with commercially bottled beverages and never worry. The Baja Sleigh RideI peered over the side into the amazingly clear blue water. A luminescent, lime-colored torpedo circled 10 feet below my kayak, appearing to be nearly the size of my craft. The dorado in question paused and looked my way. Our eyes locked, and I thought to myself, “What in the world have I gotten myself into?” Earlier this beautiful, sunny morning I launched from the shore of Rancho Leonero with a group of kayak fishermen affectionately known as “kayakeroos.” Even at only 8 a.m. the sun’s heat felt very warm. We headed about a mile offshore but stayed within sight of the majestic Sierra De La Laguna mountain range.
I paddled my way to a clearly marked current break showing a distinct color change from deep blue to rich purple. I stopped rowing and tossed out a halved sardine on a 3/0 circle hook attached to my conventional outfit. No takers. After 10 minutes of soaking, I switched to a smelly squid that appeared to have been frozen and thawed at least a half dozen times. Within seconds of presenting my aromatic offering, a savage strike nearly pulled the rod out of my hands … and then nothing. I re-baited with an even more malodorous piece of squid, this time more carefully hooked. The fish again struck immediately, thereafter taking me on an unwilling trip the locals call the Baja Sleigh Ride. The turbo-charged dorado on the end of the line took off like a Trident submarine, dragging my kayak for over 50 yards as I hooted and hollered the entire way. It quickly seemed to realize that this towing job didn’t earn any path to freedom, and she attempted to rid herself of the unfamiliar tether by flying her way to release. The feisty cow, which easily tipped the scale north of 30 pounds, soared through the air, executing three separate fly-by maneuvers above and to the side of my head. I don’t know which of us felt more juiced up with adrenaline. Finally, the beautiful animal tuckered out and came to boat side, where I carefully lifted her onboard. There she lay in my lap all lit up with jaws moving in a nipping motion. As I removed the circle hook from the corner of that twitching mouth, a feeling overwhelmed me that this represented the ultimate in trust between hunter and hunted. I decided to treat her with great care, and after the revival period she lazily swam off. What a rare, primordial experience! Offshore Interludes While I did not partake in blue-water fishing this time around, world-renowned Cabo San Lucas and Cabo San Jose present a wide array of options. Situated at the southernmost tip of Baja, popular fleets of boats in Cabo include the Pisces, Solmar and Gaviota Fleet. Literally hundreds of well-equipped vessels for hire can be found ranging from 20- to 23-foot super pangas to powerful 50-foot sportfisherman. The largest of these can cost upwards of $1,000 per day to charter but can make the trip to Magdalena Bay, a fertile series of barrier reefs and mangrove islands about a quarter of the way up the Baja Peninsula on the Pacific side. 
Bring the CameraBaja California sponsors many dance groups including the Balleto Folklórico de Ticuan as well as a professional orchestra. Enseñada is home to the Galería de Perez Meillon, which showcases native crafts such as the traditional willow baskets of the Pai-Pai Indians. The Plaza Calafia offers tourists a look at real bullfighting. The city park has a zoo and local marketplace. In October, Mexicali hosts its annual fair, the Fiesta del Sol. Beautiful beaches can be found at San Felipe on the Sea of Cortez. Tourists enjoy watching gray whales give birth in the protected waters along the coast. Many species of ducks and other marine birds find habitat in the coastal areas. The mountains host coyotes, white-tailed deer, puma, lynx, wild sheep and many species of snakes. Species of eagles and red-tailed hawk soar above the mountain peaks. Colorful plants and flowers sprout up galore in salt marshes, coastal dunes, chaparral scrub and forest. Of a total of 450 important plant species in Mexico, 211 can be found in Baja California. Speaking with a representative of the Solmar Fleet, I discovered that offshore fishing from Cabo depends on where the consistent bite’s been occurring. That could mean a trip several miles into the Pacific or just offshore of the famous Cabo arch, a sight instantly recognized by avid big-gamers worldwide. When the sailfish move into the Sea of Cortez, super pangas and cruisers often venture into the rich waters off the East Cape rather than exploring the plethora of opportunities in the seemingly endless Pacific. On our next trip I plan to spend at least one morning slow trolling the shoreline for hard-fighting roosterfish before switching gears to chase high-flying sailfish and marlin in the early afternoon. What a great way to spend the day doing double duty. In many cases, tackle tends to be on the heavy side with 50-pound conventional gear standard. Not only is the arsenal suitable for tuna and large dorado, it encourages faster fights and thus healthier catch and release, especially for billfish. Toss in the widespread use of circle hooks to deter gut hooking, and it’s nice to see that most local crews do all they can to preserve the resources. Outfitters offer guided fly-fishing adventures for both inshore and offshore species from a variety of locations along the East Cape’s most productive shorelines. Even novices can accomplish double-digit sailfish releases on fly as a result of effective bait-and-switch teasing tactics. Baja Fishing ProspectsThe Sea of Cortez has been fished heavily for decades. In 1940, John Steinbeck in his epic journal The Log from the Sea of Cortez recorded “…the Japanese shrimp boats are dredging with overlapping scoops, bringing up tons of shrimp, rapidly destroying the species so that it may never come back, and with the species, destroying the ecological balance of the whole region.” In the intervening 66-plus years, the Mexican government has attempted conservation efforts but they often don’t accomplish much due to a lack of enforcement. Add to this the breakneck speed of coastal development, and maintaining a viable fishery becomes quite a challenge. Yet while fewer fish might be present than yesteryear, the population still seems capable of handling the pressure. I recommend traveling to Baja, particularly the East Cape, during the spring or summer months prior to the hurricane season. Roosterfish blast the beaches about that same time. You’ll find dorado extremely plentiful during the same season, while offshore fishing pretty much offers good shots year-round. Be wary of breezy conditions December through February, and the threat of a hurricane entering the picture in fall is unlikely but possible. I don’t just come to Baja for the fantastic roosterfishing along the shorelines or the world-class billfishing. I savor the moments when I can kick back and soak in the wonderful ambiance and color of this unique Mexican peninsula. The seafood dining is always delicious, and sightseeing the desert flora, cave paintings, Spanish missions and whales puts a nice exclamation point to a truly idyllic fishing and traveling trip. Fishing FunTo satisfy my fishing Jones, I worked with Paco, the ringleader of piscatorial pursuits at the Rancho Leonero. Paco does a great job of putting guests together with his fleet of panga and cruiser captains. I fished for five days on this visit, with three on a super panga and two via sit-on-top kayak. Each of the panga captains seemed knowledgeable about the area, but Israel Ariza (www.casabaja.com/fishing.html) turned out to be my favorite. As skipper of the Cuyuyo, a 23-foot super panga with a 115-hp Yamaha outboard, Israel proved to be positive, patient, and persistent, with a great nose for finding the biggest and brashest roosterfish. The going rate is about $250 for per day that starts at 8 a.m. and ends at about 3 p.m., making the return to the gentle breezes and air conditioning at Rancho Leonero quite rewarding. I kayak fished with Dennis Spike of Coastal Kayak Fishing. Dennis spends several months of the year, usually from April to October, at Rancho Leonero leading kayak expeditions out into the Sea of Cortez. The Rancho offers a sizable fleet of tricked-out kayaks that’s available for individual or group guiding. The Ocean Kayaks come equipped with rod holders, leashes, paddle clips, live bait buckets and other accoutrements.
Our quiet stealth put us atop fish at times just a few feet off the beach. I found a great area to target dorado, tuna, an occasional striped marlin and other pelagics just a short 10-minute paddle from the hotel. If you rent a kayak on your own from the Rancho without a guide, rates run $10 per hour and $40 per day for singles, and $15/$60 for doubles. For current information: 818-970-2392, www.kayakfishing.com. Other notes of InterestMexico Board of Tourism-1-800-44.MEXICO or www.VisitMexico.com. To find out what’s happening in your Baja fishing hotspots, check with www.mexfish.com Good sites to snoop when planning the trip: Airlines, www.bajaquest.com/airlines.htm Baja hotels, www.bajaquest.com Tourism, www.VisitCabo.com, www.bcs.gob.mx, www.bajaquest.com/resources David Barton fell in the water and hit his head chasing a bluegill at age four, and has been fishing ever since. He lives on a river in Wisconsin with his wife, daughter and trusted beagle. His career takes him all over the world to the finest sport-fishing destinations on the globe. He still occasionally falls in.
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Good medical facilities can be found nearby. In East Cape, expect a slightly more relaxed atmosphere with open-air markets where you can purchase food, bottled drinks and over-the-counter medications. Sunscreen and such can be readily found, but I like to bring my favorite brand just to be sure. 
Our expedition leader, Dennis Spike of Coastal Kayak Fishing, told us we’re likely to find action in current breaks, color changes and anywhere with some form of structure or floating debris – even a small floating tree branch can hold numerous forms of life. The basic approach entailed trolling one rod as we paddled toward nowhere. A second casting rod stood at the ready in case we encountered something worthy of attention. 
