Point The Bow To Bermuda |
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Point The Bow To Bermuda
The huge pelagic speedball gobbled his fly and headed into the depths with 300 yards of backing, and I watched Flip’s 15-wt. fly rod bend double. Against maximum pressure – all that his tackle and tippet would allow – Flip’s fish seemed intent on reaching France before noon. The strike occurred while filming an episode of the Walker’s Cay Chronicles, Flip Pallot’s popular TV show, as we anchored on the edge of Challenger Bank just off Bermuda. It’s an area noted for hot tuna action, and Flip quickly could see why. Eventually, good angling skills won the day and the blackfin came aboard. The fish weighed 31 pounds, 8 ounces – a potential world record on 16-pound-class tippet, but our only thoughts at that moment centered on getting lines back in the water. In short order, we enjoyed a double hook-up, this time to even tougher foes: a yellowfin tuna and an almaco jack, both fish of trophy proportions. We boated those beauties as well and went on to experience non-stop throughout the day, with a bevy of rainbow runners, horse-eye jacks and more tunas to test our skills and stamina. By day’s end, an arm-weary Flip passed his rod to James Pearman, the island’s premier bonefish guide, who decided to take a busman’s holiday and mate for us. Flip headed to the galley to munch a sandwich, only to run back when hearing James screech in frenzied delight as his fly disappeared into the mouth of a feisty yellowfin. When brought to gaff, it cleared 51 pounds – our biggest of the day. Our cameraman later commented, “We couldn’t have scripted it better.” However, as a veteran angler of Bermuda, I knew that this level of action typifies the great fishing action often encountered here. The fact that all this drama played out around a beautiful cluster of islands some 600 miles off the eastern U.S. coast is reason enough to visit, but when we beheld the gorgeous deep hues of blue and green waters and experienced the charm of British ambiance, we quickly saw why first-time visitors return again and again. Bermuda, shaped like a fish hook, offers some of the best angling opportunities in the western hemisphere. A multitude of game fish can be found on flats, reefs and offshore. From bonefish to blue marlin, I’ve matched skills with fish on light tackle and fly, and challenged big tuna, wahoo and billfish on conventional gear. We found the best bonefish flats off the western shoreline, although good results can be found at virtually any point around Bermuda. The surrounding reefs are but a short boat ride out. Offshore, two broad seamounts southwest of the island – Challenger Bank 15 miles out and Argus Bank another 10 miles – rise to about 200 feet below the surface. The vertical current created by the banks and the steep ledge drop-offs represent ideal locations for chumming, drifting or trolling in pursuit of tuna, wahoo and the like. Billfish, mostly blue and white marlin, can be found off the south shore of the island as well. Bermuda BonesBonefish aficionados will appreciate Bermuda’s beautiful flats. While gray ghosts can be caught year-round, May through October provide the greatest numbers and best weather. You can expect bones to average over six pounds, and several fish in the eight- to 10-pound range lurk the waters too. Other targets: barracuda that can exceed 15 pounds and sporty pompano. Only two permit have ever been caught in Bermuda, and you won’t see tarpon on the flats, but silver kings do stay in one small, bay-like harbor, and no one’s found the secret for catching them, as repeated efforts to get hook ups on every conceivable tackle have been fruitless. The best flats fishing lies at Bermuda’s west end, off Somerset Long Bay and the stretch of shoreline off the Pompano Beach Club. These flats can be waded, as can those off Cambridge Beaches hotel, although access there is limited to hotel guests. Bermuda flats tend to be a bit deep, and in many areas are more than waist high. A few years ago, I fished the west end with Pete Perinchief, who for years ran the Fishing Information Bureau for the Bermuda Department of Tourism. Wading and fishing from his skiff, we managed seven bonefish, all but one in the six to eight pound range. The seventh actually turned out to be bigger. Pete caught it on a fly called the Horror, and the bone went every bit of ten pounds. Later that afternoon, I switched to spinning gear and took two barracuda – each about twelve pounds – on bright green tube lures. While this may not be a typical Bermuda flats day, I’ve had many like it, before and since.  Flats that encircle the island will put you into the bonefish action. Other flats destinations include Shelley Bay on the north shore at about mid-island and Castle Harbor toward the eastern end of Bermuda. Fly anglers should bring an 8 or 9-weight outfit with a good reel capable of holding 200 yards of backing plus the fly line. Leaders of 10 feet in length are ideal, and most any of the standard bonefish fly patterns will work well, including shrimp and crab imitations and small Clousers in tan and white. We fished here with 9-weight rods and weight-forward floating lines, such as the ones developed by Flip. Our flies include Bunny Gotchas and Stealth patterns developed and tied by D. L. Goddard of Easton, Maryland. We made sure to bring our own fly gear because no fly shops can be found in Bermuda. Besides wade fishing the flats, at the west end you can obtain a skiff from one of two rental locations in Somerset. However, I strongly recommend instead that you hire Bermuda’s only bonefish guide, James Pearman. Believe me, he’s every bit as good as the best to be found in the Keys or the Bahamas. His skiff and tackle are first-class as well. At least one day spent with James will pay off big in getting to know productive fishing grounds and to better learn local fish habits. For a diversion or a chance to get some fishing in with the family, try fishing Bermuda’s south shore beaches for pompano (actually palometa) with ultra-light spinning gear, preferably with line no heavier than 6-pound test. Here’s the recipe: Go to any grocery store and buy large plastic re-sealable bags, a few cans of sardines and a loaf of bread, preferably on the stale side. Chop the bread up into pieces no bigger than a nickel or quarter, saving the bottom crust ends for your pocket. Dump the bread chunks into the plastic bag, along with the sardines and oil and seal the bag tightly. Mix the contents thoroughly until you have a bag full of oily chum – then proceed to the beach. The best bet here is a small beach called Church Bay, accessible by motorbike or taxi from the south shore road. On the WaterI’ve been to Bermuda a lot and return every year. The following captains consistently produce good results: FOR FLATS FISHING: Captain James Pearman, 441-292-2190, www.jumpdembones.02.free.bm or www.bermudabonefish.com FOR OFFSHORE AND REEF FISHING: Captain Alan Card, 441-234-0872, www.bigfishbermuda.com Captain Steven Cabral, 441-295-0140, www.bermudasportfishing.com Captain Keith Winter, 441-292-7131, www.playmatefishing.com Captain Alan DeSilva, 441-295 0835, www.fishbermuda.com Captain Steve Rance, 441-236 3551, www.knockdowncharter.com The only fishing tackle shop is in Hamilton, the Flybridge Tackle Shop, 441-295-1845, no website. To rent a skiff or sailboat, look up Robinson’s Boat Yard at 441-234-0709 or Windjammer Water Sports: www.bermuda.com/boatingsailing/jetskis/windjammer.php The DeepBermuda reef fishing really rocks. The island, a coral structure itself, is surrounded by coral reefs just offshore in sight of land. Since most of the professional charter fleet operates out of Bermuda’s west end, the reefs to the west and to the north are the most easily accessible and therefore frequently fished. These patches hold several different varieties of snapper, including yellowtail, mangrove and lane, as well as grouper and small amberjacks. Bermuda chubs, with their wide bodies and strong tails, provide a good fight on light tackle. Also, expect barracuda to turn up and, on occasion, something a bit more exotic like the African pompano that a friend of mine landed off the reefs not too long ago. Spinning, bait-casting, and fly gear are all well-suited to reef fishing in these 60 foot or so depths, and it’s not uncommon to have fish rise to the surface in pursuit of chum. Fly anglers should use an intermediate or sinking line. Artificial lures work well, including jigs of 1 to 1 1/2 ounces, preferably white or pink. Fish feeding up in the chum will also blast plugs. Fishing the reefs normally entails going out on a charter boat, although on calm days those with proficient boating skills can sneak out there aboard one of the larger rental skiffs. Charter boats come fully equipped with tackle, chum and bait, though it’s best to bring along your own fly or light-tackle gear. Cut and live bait will produce constant action and keep even the most indifferent family members chortling with excitement.
Just in the past four years, he and other captains have guided anglers to 11 IGFA world records. On the first day of the 2004 Bermuda Fly-Fishing Invitational, I joined Floridians Jeffrey Cardenas and Mitch Howell in a triple hook-up. We spent the better part of an hour traversing the slippery decks, weaving in and out of each other, before landing two 50-pound yellowfins and a third of about 40 pounds. The following year, again on day one of the event, I watched fellow angler Pat Ford hook a wahoo that streaked straight out from the boat at warp speed and took him deep into his backing before slowing down. This turned out to be only the third wahoo ever taken on fly in Bermuda. Bring the CameraGorgeous shorelines beckon picture taking. Spend time wandering the lanes and by-ways that course through Bermuda’s parishes and villages. Don’t miss the spectacular south shore beaches found in Southampton Parrish. History buffs will want to plan a visit to Fort Hamilton and Fort Scaur. The family will also enjoy St. Georges at Bermuda’s east end. The town square still holds 17th century pillories. Check out the beautiful little church, which is the oldest known Anglican chapel outside of Great Britain. Though discovered by Spaniards in the early 16th century, the Brits arrived about 100 years later and immediately recognized Bermuda’s value. To this day, Bermuda remains a British protectorate, and that’s clearly evident in the local culture. We became struck not only by the surrounding beauty, but by the order of the place. Bermuda’s government does an excellent job of maintaining island infrastructure, with clean streets, no outdoor advertising and – for joy, for joy! – no rental cars, fast food joints and strip malls. Local modes of transportation include taxis, busses and the ever-present motor scooters and motorbikes, which can be rented throughout the island.
Native trees include Bermuda cedar, olivewood bark, Bermuda palmetto, loquat, royal poinciana, screw pine, paw-paw, cassava and banana. The Bermuda Botanical Garden displays different varieties of trees, flowers and shrubs, including native palmetto trees, hibiscus garden, frangipani assortments, banyan trees and a range of ficus. Among the native animals, the giant toad is the most spectacular amphibian that can be sighted. Snorkel if you want to go eyeball to eyeball with parrotfish, angelfish, four-eyed butterfly fish and sergeant majors. Watch for humpback whales that can be spotted from Gibbs Hill Lighthouse at South Shore from late February to May. Definitely schedule a visit to the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo, founded in 1926. Each July, the Bermuda Big Game Classic draws in excess of 80 boats from the United States, Caribbean and Bermuda. Twelve blue marlin granders have been taken in these waters, and many regularly tip the scale at over 700 pounds. Bermuda’s offshore season kicks off in April and remains productive well into the fall, when winds often prevent fishing. Also, by that time major concentrations of game fish migrate elsewhere or stay deep. Toward the middle of April, a run of wahoo begins and lasts through early June, by which time blackfin and yellowfin tuna show up in numbers. Marlin fishing revs up in June and peaks during the month of July, which is crammed with three or more tournaments. Blue and white marlin remain through August, at which time another major wahoo run starts, continuing into early October. All of these species can be fished by trolling, and you may also encounter dolphin and some really big barracuda. Artificials and live and dead baits work here, and skippers make the call based upon on what worked yesterday. If you bring a boat to Bermuda, hire a local captain for a few days. With the exception of chasing marlin, the biggest offshore treat here is chumming, at which Bermuda crews are masters. More Than Just FishingYou won’t have any trouble convincing non-anglers to accompany you to Bermuda, and for you to schedule at least a day or two off the water to appreciate this great country will be most rewarding as well. Bermuda boasts some of the best and most scenic golf courses anywhere. Although not a golfer myself, I’ve heard nothing but good things about the layouts at the Mid-Ocean Club, The Fairmont Southampton Princess Hotel and Belmont Hills. As you might expect in a country with a British heritage, tennis is very popular. While most large resorts offer tennis courts to guests, you can also play the famed Coral Beach and Tennis Club – the site of international tournaments – with the introduction by a member. Bermuda also offers a large tennis stadium where courts may be reserved. Bermuda abounds with great restaurants, ranging from pub food to gourmet dining. Once highly formal, Bermuda is now a bit more laidback although a few high-brow eateries still request ties in addition to a jacket; reservations almost always required. Our favorites in Hamilton include the Lobster Pot, Primavera, The Hog Penny and the wonderful dining room at the Fairmont Hamilton Princess Hotel called Harley’s. A bit of a longer drive but worth it: Waterlot Inn and the restaurant at the Four Ways Inn. Many hotels will prepare your fish, so ask before heading out. 
Boats proceed to one of the two seamounts mentioned previously, and throw the hook on the edge in some 200 feet of water. This places the stern right at the edge of a steep drop-off where chumming commences. The first chum to hit the water is usually made up of small minnows known locally as hog-mouth fry, which are pre-stored frozen and chucked overboard by the handful. Next come chunks of fresh mackerel or bonito and, if available, chunks of marlin meat, which is a delicacy for tuna. Bermuda captains normally release billfish, but if one cannot survive, the meat is kept for chumming. First to appear in a Bermuda chum slick are usually fish called ocean robbins, or scad mackerel, which the mate catches to provide more fresh chum and bait. Next usually come bonito and little tunny, closely followed by almaco jacks – fish that rarely rise this high in the water column anywhere else – and beautiful rainbow runners. The latter two plus yellowtail snapper represent prize targets for ultra-light and fly anglers. Bermuda boasts some of the biggest yellowtail found anywhere in the world, and most IGFA world records come from these waters. While all of this is going on, blackfin and yellowfin tunas enter the picture as do wahoo, some taking chunks of chum right at the transom. The angler waiting with a live-bait rig, chunk, strip or even a fly needs only to watch intently and wait for a strike. Any tuna in excess of 25 pounds is going to streak off like the blazes, and fish of 50 pounds or more can peel off 300 to 500 yards of line or backing in seconds. Ditto with wahoo, and all these grand battlers have 300 fathoms or more of depth at their disposal. These hook-ups and fish fights are incredibly exciting, and it’s not uncommon for the action to last for hours. I love Bermuda, and will never tire in returning to this wondrous place. Of all its many assets in terms of beauty, history and great fishing, its people rank at the top. Everyone exudes a genuine grace and warmth. Come play here, come relax here and above all, come fish here – Bermuda awaits, in all of her graces. Where to Toss the BagsLodging offers no end to choices, from private guesthouses to large luxury hotels with swimming pools and beach access. Among the hotels which cater to anglers are Cambridge Beaches and the Pompano Beach Club, both in Somerset Parish at Bermuda’s west end – and you can wade fish for bonefish right off their beaches. The Fairmont Hamilton Princess Hotel in Hamilton, one of the island’s oldest and best, is a short walk to downtown shops and restaurants. Mark Twain stayed here in the late 19th century as have many notables through the years. The basement even became a center for British and American intelligence units during World War II. The dock basin allows for even large vessels. Any of the following resorts won’t disappoint:
Rosedon, 441-295-1640 www.rosedonbermuda.com The Reefs Beach Club, 441-238-0222 www.thereefs.com Pompano Beach Club, 441-234-0222 www.pompano.bm Cambridge Beaches, 441-234 0331 www.cambridgebeaches.com Entry and exit for U.S. citizens requires a valid passport. Clearing U.S. customs upon leaving takes place at the airport in Bermuda, relieving that duty back in the states. Other notes of interestFor additional details, visit www.bermudatourism.com, www.bermuda-online.org/airlines.htm, www.bermudahotels.net. Bob Brien, a management strategy consultant from Virginia, fishes extensively throughout Florida, Bermuda and the Caribbean. He’s a past world-record holder and a member of the Miami Beach Rod & Reel club’s 10-to-1 club. Flip Pallot’s popular TV series, Walker’s Cay Chronicles, has aired for 16 seasons. He’s currently producing Fishing the Florida Keys with Flip Pallot for the 2007 season on the Outdoor Life Network. He continues with outdoor photography, books, articles, personal appearances and consulting.
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One day while heading to the offshore banks to chum for tunas and wahoo aboard Challenger with Captain Alan Card, we put out a couple of flat lines to troll. We never made it to the banks. In just over an hour, I boated three blackfin tunas to 24 pounds, a dolphin and a wahoo that tipped the scales at 60 pounds. With that kind of action, we stayed on the troll and fished until my arms got weary.
Long a favorite vacation destination particularly for American and British tourists, Bermuda holds a particular attraction for honeymooners, who have flocked here for decades along with college students in the spring. 
Fairmont Hamilton Princess, 441-295-3000 
