Seductive Solitude |
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Seductive Solitude
Nearly all who have left footsteps in the sand on any of the Islands of the Bahamas will quickly confirm that my emotions actually understate the overwhelming attraction this aquatic playground holds. I feel honored to have fished far and wide around our fair planet. I can therefore freely say that few angling destinations offer the sport-fishing enthusiast such a wide variety of exciting options all tucked into one mesmerizing destination. Sure, while well-to-do visitors flock to the Bahamas for their very own reasons, unquestionably all seek the islands’ pampering mixture of sun, sand, and sea. Most recognize that the Islands of the Bahamas are really much more than a single destination. The vast region stretches over 100,000 square miles in the western Atlantic Ocean and is dissected by abyssal seas, bordered by expansive flats and dotted by uninhabited cays. Each unique shaped formation protruding from its aquamarine surroundings displays its own aura of tranquility, yet all intoxicate visitors with a warm, fuzzy feeling seldom experienced at any other location. To truly appreciate the Bahamas’ colorful heritage, let’s partake in a quick history lesson. From 900 to 1500 A.D., the islands’ original inhabitants were the Lucayan Indians who thrived off nothing more than abundant natural resources. Christopher Columbus, the first European visitor, made his original landfall on San Salvador (located on the southeastern edge of the islands) in 1492. Gazing across the sparkling clear water, he commented, “baja mar” (pronounced baha ma), the Spanish term for shallow sea – fitting for such an extraordinary angling paradise. During a visit sometime around 1760, George Washington referred to the Bahamas as the “Isles of Perpetual June.” It’s obvious that he, too, must have fallen victim to the region’s romantic seduction. With its close proximity to the mainland of Florida and well-traveled shipping lanes, the riches of natural woods and salt deposits caught the attention of explorers and traders – whose descendants still reside throughout the chain. These early settlers carved the charismatic history of the islands and made the Bahamas the cultural wonderland it is today. All that safety-conscious travelers need to know is that the culmination of islands, cays and jagged rock formations is today recognized as The Free and Sovereign Commonwealth of The Bahamas. With over 270 years of democratic rule, the nation is one of the most politically stable in the world. So much so, the Bahamas doesn’t even have an army – a nice touch in an age of instability. Oh, the possibilitiesFor angling enthusiasts, the emerald waters encompassing the entire country naturally yield bounties of nearly unimaginable proportions. From Gun Cay across Northwest Providence Channel to famed Walker’s Cay, the chance encounter with a giant bluefin tuna nearing half a ton is dwarfed only by the shot at a grander off the eastern Abacos. This is where names like Marsh Harbour and Green Turtle Cay are synonymous with tournament-winning monster blues. Even more numerous are the eager and acrobatic white marlin, which faithfully provide light-tackle billfish crews with plenty to cheer about during the spring season. Ilander/ballyhoo combos are simply deadly in these ultra-deep waters. Throw into the blue-water potpourri a healthy mix of yellowfin, blackfin and skipjack tuna, the largest and fastest wahoo in all the world’s oceans, and a seemingly endless supply of crowd-pleasing dolphin fish, and it’s easy to see why so many leading sportfish crews invade these waters season after season. It’s here in what many call “The Billfish Capital of the World” where so many got their big-game start longer ago than they care to remember, yet they all continue to revisit these waters in their ongoing attempt to hone their skills to near perfection. Great fishing to be sure, but you can't think of the Bahamas without visions of beaches fringed with palm trees. 
Bimini, the nearest Bahamian port-of-entry to the United States coastline, has established a well-deserved reputation as a sport-fishing mecca, and is precisely where Ernest Hemingway resided from 1935 to 1937. It’s a real shame the legendary Compleat Angler Hotel where he spent much of his time mastering his craft recently burned to the ground. I can’t tell you how many ring tosses I’ve attempted there. In addition to the vast array of pelagic surprises prowling the perimeter of nearly every one of the islands during various months of the year, the possible rewards are genuinely endless where ocean meets land. Very little fishing pressure, either commercial or recreational, has afforded these nutrient-rich waters with an opportunity to thrive. Experienced island hoppers know all too well that the Bahamas hosts the third-longest barrier reef in existence, containing more than five percent of the world’s remaining coral. The entire stretch of underwater topography surrounding the island chain teems with life at nearly every depth. Visiting fishermen quickly confirm that the angling choices number far too many to explore in a single visit, regardless of the duration. It’s this sheer variety and the endless challenges that keep anglers of all skill levels coming back for more. No more than inches deep, the shallow flats tucking up against nearly every one of the larger land formations are where bonefish, the ghostliest of all flats figures, can be regularly encountered in unfathomable numbers. Barely averaging four pounds, acre-size schools containing hundreds of individual fish root through the underwater terrain like squadrons of World War II Spitfires. It’s deep in the crushed coral and tight along the mangrove shoots where they so methodically sniff out crustaceans, mollusks, and sea worms. Fortunately for sight-fishermen, these mirror images are usually hungry and eager to provide both fly fishermen and spinfishers with all the skinny-water action they could ask for during any day of the year. Getting HereAbout 57 airports support the Bahamas, including three international airports in Paradise Island, Grand Bahama Island and The Exumas. Citizens of the United States, Canada, Mexico and Bermuda will be required to present a passport to enter the United States when arriving by air from any part of the Western Hemisphere beginning January 23, 2007, as part of the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative. Other dates have also appeared recently regarding passport restrictions, which can be imposed at any time. Visit www.dhs.gov/index.shtm for the latest updates, but play it safe and get a passport now if you don’t have one. For those of us who prefer to enter the Bahamas by boat, countless marinas are scattered throughout, with 29 of them official ports of entry. It’s necessary to pay a fee to clear Customs and Immigration of $150 for boats 35 feet and under and $300 if 36 feet and over. The flat fee covers a vessel with four persons or less, cruising permit, fishing permit, Customs and Immigration charges and departure taxes. To appreciate the wide number of choices in airline services, hotels, and other details, visit the Board of Tourism site at www.Bahamas.com, the Bahamas Hospitality Information Network at www.TourismBahamas.org and the Bahamas Airlines & Hotels at www.Bahamas-Travel.info. Bahamian cuisine centers on – what else! – seafood, and well it should. While fish and lobster dinners couldn’t be any fresher, also famous: Bahamian conch chowder and conch fritters. The Goddess of Conch at Old Bahama Bay Resort & Marina on Grand Bahama Island prepares the absolute best fritters in the world – I salivate just thinking about them. I find it extremely rewarding to wade the flats, which affords the opportunity to target these captivating creatures on their very own turf. I vividly recall one such episode, which unraveled just around the corner from West End. After successfully releasing a number of average-size bones, interrupted only by a futile attempt at a single permit riding an eagle ray, my guide suggested we move on in search of a more respectable reward. A nearby current-swept point provided the perfect attraction for hunting packs of trophy-size bones exceeding 10 pounds and provided the perfect opportunity to step out of the Dolphin skiff. For nearly an hour I stood motionless, mesmerized as I admired sizable twos and threes cruise the edge of the deep cut just out of casting range. The incoming water roaring across the trench made the masters of deception even more difficult to pinpoint over the grassy bottom. Finally, a trio of admirable shadows made the mistake of entering the playing field only 20 feet in front of me – the opportunity I patiently waited for. Holding my breath, I landed the aromatic crustacean just ahead of the lead fish’s path of travel. In an instant, line sizzled across the surface as the resulting 11 ½-pound bone raced for freedom, oblivious that victory was to be mine that day. I have yet to surpass that trophy, though I know I’ll never stop trying. Those of us who enjoy this fishery never let the ghosts’ vast numbers and relatively small size fool us. These keen-eyed hunters quickly humble even the most experienced of billfishermen. Cast a shadow or step too loud, and the shot is blown. But rest assured that from the moment you successfully release your very first bonefish, dreams of shadowy figures disappearing into the glistening horizon will keep you up at night. Permit also visit these very same shallows, though nowhere near in the numbers of their smaller silvery counterparts. Nevertheless, where the flats fall off into deeper water, the wide array of reef-dwelling inhabitants provide hungry action-seekers with more than they can handle. Vast numbers of yellowtail snapper, cero mackerel, and juvenile sharks usually deter bottom-fishing crews from their intended task of targeting large mutton snapper, brutally strong African pompano, and powerhouse grouper prowling the jagged edges below. Grueling battles with man-size warsaw and giant black grouper continue to test even the stoutest of tackle. Seldom do even the most determined anglers emerge victorious from the one-sided tug-of-wars with these broom-tailed behemoths. 
Bring the CameraThe cultural carnival of Junkanoo definitely stands out as the quintessential Bahamian parade and celebration, and therefore worthy of elaboration. The upbeat color, music and energy consume the senses as thousands dance and prance in vibrant costumes to various themes. Many believe it all developed from the days of slavery while others say John Canoe, a legendary West African chief, established it. Others suspect it comes from the French gens inconnus, which means “unknown” or “masked people.” While costumes are amazing, the music astounds as well, blaring from instruments such as goatskin drums, whistles, cowbells and blaring horns. You can’t help but start shuffling your feet and dancing right along with everyone else. The grandest Junkanoo parade is in Nassau, but you can also experience it on Grand Bahama Island, Eleuthera Island, Bimini and the Abacos. It starts at 2 a.m. – that’s correct, 2 a.m., not p. m. – and runs until 8 a.m. on December 26 and January 1. Get there early for a good vantage point on Bay Street if in Nassau, such as the upstairs cafes or on the street-side bench seats, which you may reserve in advance. A summer version of Junanoo also occurs in June and July. And here’s something unique: The Ministry of Tourism promotes a People-to-People program so visitors can enjoy Bahamian hospitality and culture with Bahamians. Volunteers with interests similar to your own act as your host and hostess, possibly entertaining you in their home for dinner, at a civic or social club, a sporting event or sightseeing location. A highlight of the program: A Tea Party at Government House in Nassau, hosted by the spouse of the Governor-General. Local artists entertain visitors and local arts and crafts are on display, all the while enjoying local teas and pastries. Check out www.bahamas.com for additional details. Points of interest include Mount Alvernia on Cat Island. It’s 206 feet above sea level, making it the highest point in the Bahamas. Birdwatchers come from far and wide to spectacle at 109 species of birds which breed only in the Bahamas. Inagua represents a virtual haven for feathered fiends and plays host to the world’s largest breeding colony of West Indian flamingos: over 60,000. Amazingly, 120 species of plants and flowers also can only be seen in the Bahamas. The Bahamas has long been a favorite movie-production location. Scenes filmed in various portions of the country appear in The Outsider, Silence of the Lambs, Cocoon, Flipper, Thunderball, Splash, Never Say Never Again, Zeus and Roxanne, Jaws the Revenge and Speed 2. The islands’ surrounding waters also offer the exploratory deep-dropper with some of the finest ultra-deep water fishing you’ll find. Position over a distinct ledge 800 to 1,200 feet below, and your fishing equipment will surely strain to haul full stringers up from the deep, dark depths. With delectable snowy grouper complementing catches of silky, yellow eye and black snapper, all can easily enjoy this exciting and consistently productive fishery. Wading a remote, expansive Bahamian flat brings a relaxed, tranquil feeling. That is, until a streaking bonefish nails your offering and flicks on the excitement switch. A place to call homeIt appears many share the opinion of the allure of the Bahamas. Coastal development throughout the region is exploding at a pace never before imagined. Investment opportunities seem greater and more diversified than ever before – and for many good reasons. Choices run from quaint cottages in the shadow of towering palm trees on remote cays, condominium conversions overlooking private, state-of-the-art floating docks and glitzy mega-resorts rivaling the busiest casino-hotels on the globe. Sunshine, powdery beaches and bountiful, gin-clear seas only serve as the perimeter of the Bahamas. At the core of the archipelago’s dozen or so major islands, visitors find big hearts and a way of living that are both timeless and new. The laid-back atmosphere is often misunderstood by those unaware that nature provides every need for housing, food and livelihood. Bahamians believe anything of a negative type can just darn well wait until tomorrow. This departure from everyday stress is part of the region’s tradition. In fact I’ve never met a single resident who wasn’t both courteous and helpful. The Bahamians also love to rejoice. Family members and friends begin celebrating a marriage weeks before the official ceremony, and the passing of a loved one is commemorated by festivities long after he or she is gone. Visitors are welcomed to join in on all of the celebrations. Junkanoo – a mini version of Carnival in Rio and Mardi Gras in New Orleans – is a can’t-miss event. Main attractions of this colorful and loud parade are held December 26 and January 1 in Nassau, though smaller variations often unfold before your eyes in outer islands and at various resorts. 
Of the 300,000 or so people who live on the islands, 70 percent reside on New Providence Island, home of Nassau, the capital city of the Bahamas. The population is predominantly of West African descent. As slaves, their ancestors were forced here to work the cotton plantations until 1834, when Britain abolished slavery in all of its territories. Today, Nassuvians enjoy a way of life most only dream about. White residents throughout the islands are descendants of English settlers who flocked here from Bermuda in 1647 to gain religious freedom. The remaining few are related to the loyalists who fled the United States during the American Revolution and built expansive plantations here. Atlantis on Paradise Island greatly boosted the Bahamas as a must-visit destination. The impressive complex features all the amenities of any leading beachside resort/marina with a world-class casino, retail shops, and one of the most impressive aquariums I’ve ever visited. Nassau is also home to The Graycliff, a five-star restaurant situated in a 250-year-old mansion. It boasts one of the largest wine cellars in the Western Hemisphere with over 200,000 bottles of the world’s finest vintages, and its very own cigar factory to boot. So much moreAs they have since the beginning of time, trade winds blow almost continually throughout the islands, leaving the Bahamas with a warm, pleasant climate that varies little from season to season. The most refreshing months fall between September and May, when air temperature averages 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The remainder of the year is a bit warmer with outdoor thermometers hovering closer to 85 degrees. I have fished Bimini in July, Grand Bahama in September, the Abacos in March and so on, and equally enjoyed the pleasant climate during each adventure. For friends and family members who get a kick out of viewing marine life on a more one-on-one basis, there’s no better destination on earth. Just about every single resort or hotel throughout the entire Bahamian Island chain offers the use or rental of snorkel and dive gear, and is proximate to a kaleidoscope of aquatic life. For expert scuba divers searching for their next big thrill, Lucayan National Park on Grand Bahama Island is the site of the world’s longest underwater cavern system. And every diver who’s visited the Bahamas will vouch for fabulous water clarity, with visibility often exceeding 200 feet. Plus, scientific studies reveal that a specific alga requiring a great deal of light to thrive is found deeper in the Bahamas archipelago than anywhere else on the globe. Since the majority of all island watersports are enjoyed during daylight hours, the light of the moon finds visitors dipping spiny lobster in drawn butter while sipping martinis at their favorite eateries. Each occupied island offers casual shore-side eateries to elegant five-star dining. While Ghana may offer a greater possibility at a grander, the Pacific may provide cow-size yellowfin tuna, and Little Cayman may be home to more permit, the Bahamas combine to provide traveling anglers with a magical mixture of never-ending sunshine, soft pink sand and cobalt-blue seas where sport-fishing dreams really do come true. Add in the convenience of the destination’s accessibility, unrivaled accommodations and newly built, exquisite beachside resorts featuring modern-day marinas, and it’s easy to see why the Islands of the Bahamas should rank number one on the list of must-see locations for the upcoming season. Other notes of Interest
Board of Tourism: www.Bahamas.com Bahamas Hospitality Information Network: www.TourismBahamas.org Bahamas Airlines & Hotels: www.Bahamas-Travel.info Founder/Editor-In-Chief of Florida Sport Fishing Magazine, Captain Mike Genoun still finds the time to cross the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas as often as possible. His only regret is that he can’t live there full-time – at least not yet.
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