Where Salmon Is King

Give me British Columbia for awesome fishing and fabulous scenery. I watch the rhythmic bobbing of the bent rod as the downrigger deploys a silvery, plug-cut herring into the salmon strike zone 40 feet below.

My captain eases his vessel as close as possible to the kelp beds, right where the herring and needlefish seek refuge from the hunting packs of marauding chinook salmon. I gaze across the deep-green beds of vegetation toward the rocky shoreline. Two loud chirps pull my attention to the forest where a majestic bald eagle scans its domain while perched in an evergreen. The sight of this feathered fisherman reassures me.

The captain shouts, "Strike!" I turn and see the limber scepter go momentarily straight as the bait is pulled free from the downrigger clip. I grab the rod and reel like a dervish until the line comes tight. Simultaneously, the rod bends deeply under the weight of a heavy fish. I strike once, twice, three times for good measure. Line flies off the reel at an alarming pace as the wild freight train heads toward the Alaskan islands in the distance. The locomotive finally begins to slow down on its first run.

"Reel with constant pressure and keep a steady bend in the rod," the skipper advises calmly. That's a sentence I'll remember well in British Columbia.

Having rehearsed the fighting technique the night before, my battle tactic consists of keeping the nine-foot rod in constant arc status.

I palm the revolving spool to provide extra drag on the fish. As the determined adversary tires, the combination of my rapid reeling and the following boat brings us within 40 feet of the prize.

Another angler sees it first. "It's a nice chinook, close to 30 pounds." My heart races with excitement as beads of perspiration drizzle down my forehead in the cool air.

Without a hint of warning, and very much to my surprise, a violent eruption engulfs the big fish. A half-ton seal leaps skyward with my salmon dangling from its whiskery jaws. On instinct, I pull for all I'm worth, and amazingly I win the brief tug-of-war. The marauding seal remains deep and unseen, and all hands onboard team up to ease the wounded fish into a net. It's a delightful choreography that finally lands the beautiful salmon lying at my feet and rivets the memory into the picture album of my mind.

Such wonderful scenes regularly unfold when the salmon migration reaches British Columbia. And even if the adversaries you have come so far to catch come aboard without the added pursuit and excitement of a hairy predator in chase, many other sights and sounds always delight the traveling angler. I commonly see bears on the shoreline, whimsical puffins and large pods of killer whales breaching and blowing just yards from the boat.

BC Bounty

Not to be confused with Alaska, British Columbia lies on the western shores of the Pacific Northwest region of North America. Known more often simply by its initials, BC represents the westernmost of Canada's 10 provinces. Vancouver is the major travel hub of BC, and lies only 24 miles north of the Canada-U.S. boundary. Despite the travel-friendly position of this destination, British Columbia's sheer size, extraordinary natural beauty and ecological diversity make it a must-fish destination in every wandering angler's lifetime.

BC sits at the front doorstep of the massive ocean salmon migrations for the five salmon species (chinook, coho, pink, sockeye and chum.) The newcomer often becomes confused keeping them apart, especially when locals often refer to them by other common monikers (king, silver, humpback/humpy, red and dog, respectively). It also offers countless freshwater streams that support year-round numbers of spectacular trout that include steelhead, cutthroat and Dolly Varden.

During a five-day visit, I encountered breezy days with sunny skies, calm winds under overcast skies or flat seas under a baking sun – sometimes on the same day. Fish seem to strike under all conditions as long as heavy baitfish concentrations meander around kelp beds or bottom contours. I especially wanted to visit a destination that offered lots of shots at trophy-size salmon in an open ocean setting. I chose Naden Lodge, which lies on the northern shores of the beautiful and bountiful Queen Charlotte Islands. In addition to featuring shots at five salmon species, bottom fishing yields bountiful halibut, lingcod and rockfish.

New visitors to BC become entranced by its beauty, including boat-filled harbors

I flew from Miami through Chicago straight on to Vancouver. I stayed overnight at the Fairmont Vancouver Airport hotel and jumped aboard the 8 a. m. Pacific Coastal Airlines direct flight to the township of Masset. The one-hour flight over the open Pacific can be a majestic sight when the weather cooperates. Upon landing, six other anglers and I climbed into Naden Lodge's van for the five-minute drive to the lodge.

Upon arrival, we enjoyed a hearty brunch of fruit, pancakes, eggs benedict and plenty of hot coffee. After the meal, we received a quick orientation of the fishing methodology. Despite all the reading and research prior to the visit, I learned a lot of nuances about the best tactics in this part of BC. Most salmon fishing is accomplished by trolling baits like sardines, anchovies or colorful artificial lures from downriggers.

Mooching – the vertical deep-jigging technique – becomes a secondary approach to trolling. Barbless hooks are uniform and standard tackle consists of fly rod outfits as well as levelwind bait-casting gear.

As we headed for the boats, the wind swirled 15 to 20 knots. With a bellyful of brunch, I found it reassuring when Captain Brian Hillier, Naden Lodge owner, assured us that a short run would get us to calmer salmon grounds. My skipper that day turned out to be a veteran captain nicknamed "Striper Dan." I greeted him as I stepped aboard his 25-foot center console, and in what seemed like no time, we eased onto the lapping waves above the salmon grounds. Dan gave me a choice of going a bit farther to the kelp beds for chinooks or fishing for cohos nearby at a reef-like area called Seven Mile. Not content to wait longer to wet a line, I opted for giving it a go sooner rather than later.

More than Just Fishing

As with much of this nature-friendly region, the Queen Charlotte Islands offer more than great fishing. Everyone in our party rejoiced at the daily sightings of porpoises, killer whales and sea lions. I spotted numerous bald eagles as well as occasional deer and black bears. Hillier advised of the miles of hiking trails that snake through the forests as well as beaches, park and a nearby abandoned Indian village. Many other British Columbia angling destinations offer tours that specialize in hiking, birding, kayaking, canoeing, whale watching, arts and crafts galleries, and transportation to local restaurants. Helicopter tours provide a bird's-eye view of the land and seascapes, and just about any open view tends to be quite awe-inspiring, with scenic backdrops of mountains and blue Pacific waters.

The Douglas Channel, stretching from Kitimat to Princess Royal Island along the North Coast's mainland, is especially famous for pristine wilderness and productive salmon fishing. Check out the floating lodges in this area, and visitors should keep a sharp lookout for the rare White Kermode bear. Charter-boat services can be arranged at Kitimat, itself reached by commercial flight from Vancouver.

An abundance of sea mammals and birds draw nature lovers and photographers from all over the world. Bring the sticks if you like golf because most of the local courses offer good challenges and beautiful settings. Beachcombing along the white sands of Long Beach in Pacific Rim Park might turn up a few knickknacks or artifacts from bygone eras.

Dan switched the terminal tackle to light-blue, plastic squid lures rigged with huge flashers higher up the leader. "Cohos go crazy over this rig," said Dan. He lowered it 30 feet on a downrigger and in about 20 seconds the bent rod popped up, signaling a strike. I reeled hard, came tight and struck. Not far astern, my chrome-colored coho went airborne. In less than two minutes, the 10-pound beauty flopped into the icebox. The scene replayed over and over until we caught enough. Even in these waters of plenty the drill is to take only what you can eat and release the rest.

That night at dinner, the appetizers of shrimp in butter melted in my mouth, but the entrees – the cohos we caught that day – truly tasted fantastic. Like a Haiku poem that returns to itself, the salmon we bested reappeared on shining porcelain plates as golden tempura forms. True, that's a romanticized version of eating your catch, but everyone who's enjoyed the rich taste of salmon caught that day knows how special it is.

Scanning the BC Coast

Fishing the South Coast of British Columbia, which includes Vancouver Island, is a light-tackle angler's ace in the hole. Here you'll often witness albatross gliding inches above ocean swells and sea otters anchored in kelp, floating lazily on their backs, crunching on sea urchins. Vancouver itself will be the site of the 2010 Olympic Winter Games.

South Coast fishing provides shots at chinook salmon much of the year but particularly in early summer, with mature cohos present in good numbers from July through September. By August, millions of pinks and sockeyes start appearing. Chums show up after the sockeye and pink run and can be fished well into November. I didn't go after lingcod or rockfish, but many veteran bottom-fishing anglers attest to great action with them.

Where to Stay, Where to Eat

Most airlines offer direct or connecting flights into Vancouver International Airport. Go to www.yvr.ca for details.

I can't say enough good things about Chris and Brian Hillier and their Naden Lodge (800-771-8933, www.nadenlodge.bc.ca) in the Queen Charlotte Islands. It's a 10-bed resort on the waterfront that overlooks the boat basin. Amenities include a pool table, sitting room with view and a hot tub on the sundeck.

Where to stay depends on your tastes, of course. For a wide selection of ideas, visit www.HelloBC.com or www.Travel.BC.ca.

Dining out isn't taken lightly in Vancouver. Many hotels offer excellent dining rooms, such as Bacchus, Chartwell, Diva at the Met, Five Sails and Fleuri. If you want to browse menus first, hit Denman Street. In the downtown core, it's seven blocks long with more than 50 restaurants, or you can find over 200 specialty restaurants in the 52 blocks along Broadway Avenue between Alma Street on the West Side and Commercial Drive on the East Side. Robson Street also presents a seven-block cluster of eateries. Check out the chic CinCin Ristorante to more pedestrian Japanese noodle houses. Commercial Drive in the city's East Side offers up about a dozen restaurants, mostly Italian cuisine.

Thick kelp beds cluster along the rocky shores where darkened, clear, icy water provides refuge for enormous schools of baitfish, affording a little protection from the relentless feeding from predators below and constant attack from birds above. Kelp zones can be fished with trolled gear in relatively shallow water of 30 feet or less where big, wild salmon aggressively strike lures and instinctively race for deep cover. Helmsmen in nearby boats watch for strikes and quickly accelerate to avoid crossing lines with their fellow boaters. Stories abound of tackle and heavyweight fish lost each year due to the incompetence of a few boat handlers.

Easily accessible from Vancouver via ferries, the spectacular interior islands also offer excellent salmon fishing. Choice areas include reefs, island points and shorelines, fast-moving currents and rips. Anchovy, needlefish, Pacific herring, shrimp, squid and krill represent just a portion of the favorite forage, which is why quality bait or imitations become a must. Keep an eye on gulls and diving birds to put you on predominant bait schools that also attract feeding salmon.

The beautiful fishing village of Tofino located at the southern border of Clayoquot Sound is a Mecca for South Coast visiting anglers. The main run of migratory chinook salmon start appearing in early April. By late May, the fishery is wide open with fish up to 50 pounds being reported in the protected inshore waters.

Large cohos are found in the area during September, while halibut fishing offshore is best in May and June. Rockfish and lingcod are typically plentiful throughout the inshore waters year-round.

While Clayoquot presents large expanses of water seemingly protected from strong winds, don't be fooled – the area is notorious for large swells due to powerful currents. Hire a guide or travel with someone who knows how to handle such conditions. Fishing offshore banks requires large, seaworthy boats that can handle nasty seas that often arise quickly due to finicky weather.

I've become totally smitten with British Columbia. It's a majestic paradise of sights, sounds, smells and tastes. Take a trip there yourself and I guarantee the experience will emblazon itself forever in your heart, mind and soul.

Bring the Camera

Do plan extra days in Vancouver, one of the truly great cities of North America. Here's just a sampling of things to do and see.

Ever been to a salmon hatchery? Visit the Capilano Salmon Hatchery (www.heb.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/facilities/capilano/capilano_e.htm) and enjoy a self-guided, free tour with information panels describing lifecycles of salmon. July to December you can watch the juvenile Pacific salmon in the ponds and see the returning adults jump a series of steps known as a fish ladder.

Visit glaciers within one hour of downtown. Go airborne for a glacier and alpine lakes tour to see glaciers and BC's Coastal Mountain range (www.westcoastair.com, www.harbour-air.com). Planes often swoop into small alpine valleys or glide above forests, rivers and waterfalls. Flights depart and return to Coal Harbour in downtown Vancouver.

Witness spectacular fireworks displays (www.celebration-of-light.com) from the beaches and parks that surround English Bay. In summer months just after dusk on select nights, pyrotechnics from countries all over the world compete in this annual competition. The fireworks erupt from a barge on English Bay and are choreographed to music.

The Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre (www.vanaqua.org) at Stanley Park is an award winning aquarium with beluga whales, seals, otters and fish by the millions. Check out sloths, big snakes and piranhas in the aquarium's steamy Amazon Gallery. Open every day of the year.

The Grouse Mountain Skyride (www.grousemountain.com) offers a great view of the city and harbor. Visit orphaned grizzly bear cubs on their five-acre grizzly bear habitat.

Kayak an ancient fjord (www.lotuslandtours.com) by paddling up Indian Arm, Canada's most southern glacial fjord. Picnic on barbecued salmon on an uninhabited island during the four-hour trip.

Other notes of interest

About BC:

• Population: Just over four million
• Capital: Victoria on Vancouver Island
• Languages: English and French, but the majority of the population speaks English
• Size: Total land mass is larger than France and Germany combined
• Currency: the Canadian dollar, $1 CD = 75¢ USD
• Tourism generates $10 billion dollars a year.
• BC is the third largest film and TV production center in North America after New York and Los Angeles.
• Vancouver International Airport is the first airport in North America to have a walk-in drug store, dental services and medical clinic.

A past IGFA world-record holder, Jan Stephen Maizler hails from Miami, Florida. He's authored numerous articles and seven books, including Flats Fishing II and Fishing Florida's Coast.