Heaven on Earth |
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Heaven on Earth
"Many tuna en aqui!" shouted our charter captain in his best broken English, as we motored toward a point locals call El Farito or "The Little Lighthouse." The winds were uncharacteristically light for late November in East Cape, making the Sea of Cortez like a sheet of glass and our morning run to the fishing grounds a pleasant one. Heaven on Earth
"Many tuna en aqui!"shouted our charter captain in his best broken English, as we motored toward a point locals call El Farito or "The Little Lighthouse." The winds were uncharacteristically light for late November in East Cape, making the Sea of Cortez like a sheet of glass and our morning run to the fishing grounds a pleasant one. Just off El Farito, our skipper Jose explained, was an underwater seamount known for attracting huge concentrations of bait – and often, hungry pelagic predators. Moving in closer to the spot, we could see schools of "working" birds frantically picking off panicked baitfish on the surface. We knew the scene could mean only one thing; ravenous game fish were on the feed! The skipper carefully maneuvered our cruiser toward the feeding frenzy, while I did my best to pin a lively sardina on a hook, my hands shaking with anticipation. After casting the offering off our stern, it took only seconds for braid to begin flying off my reel. I shifted into gear and cranked into the fish, letting my circle-hook do its thing. My rod buckled as line melted off my Saltist. Glancing at my fishing partners, I could see they, too, had hooked up. It all seemed too easy; like pulling up to a floating fast-food "drive-through" and ordering a wide-open bite. While these fish weren’t huge - school-size yellowfin in the 30-pound class - the action was non-stop. We limited out within a couple of hours, opting to leave the still boiling tuna in search of other cooperative species. This was the kind of "instant gratification" anglers have come to expect from Baja’s East Cape - a one-of-a-kind destination that consistently rewards visitors with scenic wonders and a seemingly endless supply of prize game-fish. The Unspoiled ExperienceMy personal love affair with Baja’s East Cape started 30 years ago. That’s when I first visited this picturesque sportsman’s paradise nestled along Mexico’s Sea of Cortez. Cabo San Lucas was just a small fishing village at that time, and the East Cape region - about 65 miles north - was even more rustic and remote. At that time, not many Americans were aware of this angling hot-spot, which runs from Punta Pescadero in the north to Los Frailes in the south at the end of Mexico’s Baja peninsula. Those who were "in-the- know," mostly veteran Southern California fishermen - did their best to keep the location and its incredible fishing a well-guarded secret.
Unlike Cabo San Lucas, the "pet" project of Fonatur (Mexico’s official tourism agency) over the last couple of decades, East Cape has managed to retain much of its original charm. While mega-resorts, restaurants, nightclubs and shops now line every available square foot of shoreline in Cabo, East Cape is more pristine and unspoiled. Only a handful of smaller resorts and lodges cater to visiting anglers, and the pace is slower; the atmosphere more relaxed. A few East Cape hotels, such as Palmas De Cortez, have been successful in attracting a broader clientèle by offering deluxe accommodations, more amenities and activities beyond fishing, but serving the serious sportsman remains their number one priority. From an angling standpoint, one of the biggest advantages East Cape offers is less fishing pressure. The absence of huge marinas filled with charter boats and private sportfishers means you won’t be competing with an armada of anglers. In fact, you’ll often find yourself fishing without another vessel in sight. Blue-water BonanzaBaja’s Sea of Cortez is one of the most fertile bodies of water on the planet, supporting over 650 different fish species. Among these are more than 80 types of over-sized, hard-fighting game-fish including, marlin, sailfish, tuna, dorado and wahoo. Upwelling currents are primarily responsible for this abundance of life, generating nutrients that attract massive schools of forage and the larger predators that feed upon them. Situated directly on the Sea of Cortez near the small fishing villages of Los Barriles and Buena Vista, the East Cape region offers visiting anglers quick and easy access to some of Mexico’s most productive fishing grounds. Because the shelf drops off so quickly in this area – in some areas just three to five miles from shore - it’s a short run to the deep underwater canyons and outstanding blue-water bonanza.
During the late summer and early fall, larger blue and black marlin join the party in the Sea of Cortez, to the delight of big-game enthusiasts. The blues and blacks average 200 to 300 pounds, but mega-fish weighing 700 pounds or more are landed each year. Some East Cape marlin are taken on trolling lures, but the majority are caught on live baits such as Pacific mackerel or "caballitos," either slow-trolled or cast to fish hunting on the surface. Local charter boat captains have keen eyesight and are able to spot a marlin’s tail fin slicing across the serene surface from great distances. On occasion, though, skippers receive some welcome help. They keep their eyes peeled for huge frigate birds, which like to dip down and pick up scraps left behind by feeding game-fish. The site of a low-flying frigate is always a solid indicator that a billfish is ‘dining’ in the immediate vicinity. In addition to marlin, East Cape offers outstanding action for Pacific sailfish in the 50- to 100-pound class, especially during the summer. These waters also produce broadbill swordfish, albeit in much smaller numbers than the marlin or sails. If your sights are set on power-packed tuna, you’ll generally do best from May through November. During this time frame, school-size yellowfin weighing up to 50 pounds invade the waters off East Cape in huge numbers, with daily limits of five per person common. Larger tuna weighing 100 pounds or more are also a possibility. When they’re around, these bigger models can typically be found swimming with pods of porpoise, working together with the marine mammals to herd baitfish into tight ‘balls’ for easier consumption. East Cape yellowfin can be caught on a variety of trolled plugs and feathers, but it’s often hard to beat the real thing. Sardinas, either free-lined or slow-trolled, will turn on the smaller fish, while the bigger yellowfin generally prefer lively greenback Pacific mackerel and other larger baits. Chunking cut baits ahead of the porpoise schools is another highly effective method for enticing tuna. Dorado fishing can also be red-hot for East Cape anglers trolling lures, drifting live baits or slow-trolling dead or strip baits, especially during the peak period of May through October. These colorful, acrobatic game-fish averaging 20- to 30-pounds, are great fighters and make for exceptional table fare. The Sea of Cortez also plays host to big bulls ranging to more than 70 pounds. Adventurous kayak anglers often score big with these aggressive fish barely a mile from shore. From June through October, fair numbers of wahoo move into the area to gorge themselves on the enormous schools of bait that congregate in the warm, cobalt-blue sea. Typically in the 30- to 50-pound class, these voracious saltwater speedsters can be taken on a variety of larger plugs and lures trolled at a fast clip, as well as live bait. While the species mentioned above have "peak seasons" in the East Cape, they can be caught in fewer numbers during any given month of the year. There are, however, periods you may want to avoid. From December through March, the East Cape is subject to strong north winds that turn this area into a haven for windsurfers, but create nothing but problems for anglers. The gusts often make it difficult for charter boats to fish offshore. Fishing off the East Cape during the months of August and September can also be an "iffy" proposition due to weather conditions. While these months offer some of the best action, especially for marlin, hurricane-like "Chubascos" can move in and pound the region. However, throughout most of the year, East Cape offshore fishing conditions are picture-perfect, with plenty of sunshine, flat seas and little wind. Inshore OpportunitiesAt East Cape, offshore fishing is by no means the only game in town. The inner waters of the Sea of Cortez are home to a wide variety of hard-charging middleweights - including roosterfish, jacks, sierra and pargo - all great sport on lighter tackle. After battling big-game bruisers, many East Cape anglers choose to motor in toward the beach to challenge spirited inshore predators. That’s exactly what we did during our recent East Cape trip. After capitalizing on an epic yellowfin bite, we decided to try our luck just outside the surf zone. The run in from the blue-water was short and before we knew it, we were fishing off the white sand beaches of Punta Colorada - a spot known to hold plenty of over-size roosters. While it was past peak season for this particular species (summer through early fall is best), conditions appeared ideal. The aqua water was crystal clear; there was plenty of bait in the water and birds were circling overhead. Our hopes were high.
Roosterfish are known for their strength, and this trophy-size fish was no exception. Feeling the hook’s sting, it thrashed momentarily on the surface and then headed toward deeper water. The fish made powerful runs, putting Craig’s angling skills to the test. Finally, the determined rooster began to tire, allowing Craig to gain back line and work his adversary to the boat. Our deckhand grabbed the leader and hoisted the fish aboard. It was even larger than we originally thought; a true trophy in the 50-pound class. We seized the opportunity to take a few quick photos before releasing it to fight another day. Our group managed to land a few smaller roosterfish in the same area as well as a couple of pargo on an inshore reef before time ran out on our first day of fishing. Our arms sufficiently sore, we headed back to the dock looking forward to enjoying margaritas and fresh sashimi at Hotel Palmas De Cortez. Charter Boats, Guides and TackleCharter boats in the East Cape are typically 28- to 32-foot "cruisers" that fish up to four anglers with "deluxe" sportfishers available for bigger groups. The largest fleet in East Cape (and all of Baja) is the Van Wormer Fleet, which primarily serves guests at the Hotels Palmas de Cortez, Playa del Sol and Punta Colorada. This fleet boasts more than 60 sportfishers as well as ten pangas (center-console type skiffs).
The cruisers are typically equipped with quality tackle, however, some anglers choose to bring their own gear and lures. Most East Cape charter boats, including the Van Wormer Fleet cruisers and pangas, depart by 7:00 a.m. for a full day of fishing, returning to the dock around 3:00 p.m. While lures are often extremely effective off the East Cape, you’ll want to have live bait on board as well. Anglers can attempt to catch their own with Sabiki rigs, or purchase it from bait skiffs ($20 to $30 for a day’s supply) on the way to the fishing grounds. Box lunches, typically included in the charter boat price, can be ordered from the sportfishing office or hotel desk the evening prior to departure. Gratuities are not included and should be based upon the level of service provided. About $20 per angler is the general rule. In addition to any of your own tackle you may want to use on the boats, be sure to bring along a medium-action saltwater spinning or baitcasting outfit for casting from shore. Juvenile roosterfish, jacks and cabrilla, can be caught by casting lures or cut bait directly from the beach. Leaving HeavenPerhaps the hardest thing about traveling to the East Cape is coming to the realization that you will eventually have to return to civilization. The more time you spend in this amazing locale with its spectacular scenery, warm hospitality and incredible angling action, the more you want to stay. For our group, the inevitable had arrived. It was time to pack our bags, check out and catch a taxi to the airport in San Jose del Cabo for the flight home. Somehow, after spending five days in "fishing nirvana," returning to the crowds and stress of a metropolitan city didn’t sound like such a good idea. As we stepped into our taxi, we were comforted by only one thought; the knowledge that we would soon return to this land of plentiful fish and unsurpassed beauty. A veteran angler and outdoors writer, Marc Malkin grew up fishing the waters off Southern California and Baja. Over the last 30 years, his angling adventures have taken him from Alaska’s Inland Passage to the rainforests of Costa Rica. Currently based in Charlotte, North Carolina, he serves as communications manager for leading tackle manufacturer, Daiwa Corporation. Where To Toss The BagsDirect, round-trip air service between Los Cabos International airport and many U.S. cities is offered by a number of commercial carriers, including Alaska, American, Frontier, AeroMexico and Mexicana. It’s best to book your ground transfers for the 45-mile drive from the airport in San Jose del Cabo to your East Cape resort in advance. Most East Cape hotels recommend T.T. Cabo Del Este taxi service (arrangements can be made through Van Wormer Resorts 877-777-8862). Some of the nicest accommodations in East Cape are located on Bahia de Palmas near the small villages of Los Barriles and Buena Vista. Three of these resorts - Hotel Palmas de Cortez, Hotel Playa del Sol and Hotel Punta Colorada - were established back in the 1960s by legendary angler and adventurer Bobby Van Wormer, who still owns and operates them along with his two sons, Eddie and Chucky. Once rustic lodges, the Van Wormer Resorts (www.vanwormerresorts.com) have undergone extensive renovations. Now first-class resorts, they offer traveling anglers a long list of creature comforts and amenities. Next door to Palmas de Cortez is the Van Wormer family’s latest project, the newly-built Villas de Cortez Resort Hotel and Condominiums, offering the most upscale accommodations in the East Cape. Of course, for anglers, the best part of staying at one of the above-mentioned resorts is easy access to the Van Wormer Sportfishing Fleet, featuring top-quality boats, excellent tackle and some of the most experienced skippers in all of Baja. The hotels also offer complete fish-cleaning, freezing and packaging services for a nominal fee. Other noteworthy East Cape resorts include: Hotel Rancho Leonero (www.rancholeonero.com), Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort (www.hotelbuenavista.com) and Hotel Punta Pescadero (www.puntapescadero.com).Bring Your CameraAlthough world-class fishing is the East Cape’s number one attraction, there are other things to see and do. For eco-minded types, a variety of adventure tours can be arranged through the various hotels. You can take a guided ATV tour of the region’s tropical treasures (waterfalls, coastal lagoons and mountains). Horseback rides along stretches of unspoiled beach or in the local mountains are also an option.
Snorkeling and scuba enthusiasts won’t want to miss the opportunity to dive nearby Cabo Pulmo Marine Park, an 11-mile long official government preserve featuring coral reefs and wrecks that play host to an amazing array of sea life. The East Cape also offers some of the best wind-surfing and kite-surfing on the planet, especially during the winter and early spring when the winds kick into high gear. Other activities offered include, kayaking, tennis and biking. If you want to pitch and putt, there’s a new 9-hole course located next to the Villas De Palmas in Los Barriles. Other Notes of InterestAbout Southern Baja:For additional facts about East Cape, visit www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/35749.htm
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"We slow-troll ahora," said our skipper, instructing us to grab a choice sardine from our livewell. We had been dragging our baits behind the boat for just a couple of minutes when my friend Craig Willis, a seasoned Baja angler, noticed a dark shadow moving up behind his frisky offering. Suddenly, there was a large splash as a hungry rooster pounced on the helpless baitfish. Craig allowed line to flow off his spool for a few seconds before shifting into gear and slamming the hook home. Game on! 
