Russian Rainbows |
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Russian Rainbows
Russian Rainbows
The giant helicopter’s turbines scream to life and the massive rotors begin spinning. With our mountain of gear stowed in the cavernous cargo hold, we’re all set to go, feeling the intense excitement of the high adventure that awaits us here in Far East Russia, on the fishing trip of a lifetime! The flight engineer gives the thumbs up, engines rev and we’re off! The powerful helicopter easily lifts off the tarmac, and soon we are cruising above the outskirts of town, heading west over fields filled with crops and cattle. Mountains crowd the horizon in all directions, and in no time at all, we leave the world of man behind, traveling through a landscape of stone-white birch forests, lush meadows of wildflowers, cascading streams and wispy, snow-capped volcanic peaks. This is the Kamchatka Peninsula, a rugged and supremely wild 700-mile extension of Asia into the North Pacific that almost touches the fringe of Alaska’s Aleutian Islands. For decades closed to all foreigners because of its strategic military significance, Kamchatka and its stupendous angling possibilities have barely been explored by westerners in the 15 years the country has been open for tourism. Like Alaska, this isolated Northern Province has abundant salmon runs (six species) in nearly all its rivers, but its phenomenal rainbow trout fishing has garnered most of the attention among the world’s coldwater angling fraternity. Many call it the last great place for wild trout fishing and compare it to Alaska of 50 years ago. We are here now, in early September, to target these robust Russian rainbows (called “mikizha” by the natives) that we’ve heard so much about. The massive chopper continues on a course west and south, through misty mountain passes, over extensive lava fields and around the slopes of immense volcanoes. Our destination is a rocky creek that is the primary headwater of a major river that flows off the west side of Kamchatka’s mountainous spine and empties into the Sea of Okhotsk. To my knowledge, no one has ever run this tributary and few, if any, have sampled the waters where we will be fishing. Just how good is the trout fishing in Kamchatka and how does it compare with other great destinations? Make no mistake; our 49th state still has some of the best rainbow fishing on the planet, and Chile, Patagonia and New Zealand rank right up there as well. Kamchatka is unique for a few reasons. First, there’s the awesome country; because it’s located in the crucible of the Pacific’s “Ring of Fire,” it has one of the greatest concentrations of active volcanoes, geysers and hot springs on the globe. Second, and more significant for adventurous anglers, is the quantity and quality of its big trout water. Unlike Alaska, where a significant number of rivers are too large or too silty to fish effectively with a fly rod, Kamchatka’s streams, almost all runoff or spring fed, are crystal clear and of just the right size and flow to offer perfect wade and cast conditions for the fly angler. If you’ve fished Alaska and other places in recent years, you know how difficult it can be to find solitude on some of the more popular and productive locations. Kamchatka has dozens, if not hundreds of streams on both coasts that have never been explored by anglers, with most of the tour operators presently concentrating on a handful of rivers within reach of the major hubs. What other region on the globe can offer fishermen a pick of streams where they can cast to big trout that have never seen a fly? For our Kamchatka fishing adventure, my friends and I chose the most challenging option available and one with the least amenities: a “float and fish” expedition using rafts and tent camps. The other choices available for anglers at present are fishing programs run from a lodge or base camp, which use jet boats for access. I’ve been exploring Alaska’s wild rivers by raft for almost 30 years, and for a supreme adventure angler like me, there is no more intimate way to experience a country’s wild nature and its virgin fishing. The helicopter descends onto a grassy meadow by the stream, and we all help unload the gear and food. With little fanfare, the chopper takes off, leaving us on our own in total wilderness for the next eight days. While we rig up rods and don waders to test the fishing, our Russian guides waste no time in setting up our deluxe camp and inflating the rafts. The only question now is who will be the first to catch a Russian rainbow? Trout Fishing NirvanaJust as we had hoped, the trout are waiting for us in the swift, rocky flows nearby. Using a variety of patterns - nymph, forage and hopper flies - our group coaxes fat rainbows from behind boulders, in the calmer water of pools, and in tailouts below the abundant rapids. These fish aren’t as hefty as the ones we’ll take from the larger waters in the days ahead, averaging perhaps 16 inches, but they make up for it in sheer spunkiness and beauty as they are marked with gorgeous hues of pink pearl and profuse black spotting.
Kamchatka’s conditions are very similar to Alaska, with cool, moist weather the norm (temperatures from high 50s to upper 60s usually) during fishing season, which runs from June into October. Sunny days in June and July will bring hot weather (into the 80s) and abundant insects. Fall occurs in September, but is typically nicer than Alaska’s, with extended periods of dry weather and Indian summer conditions possible (with some frosty nights). The first snow usually comes by mid-October. One of the highlights of trout fishing in Kamchatka is the great dry fly action available due to the presence of abundant insect life. Even though it’s autumn, with chilly nights, during the warmest part of each day we encounter swarms of midges, mayflies and stoneflies, with attendant hordes of rainbow trout and Dolly Varden charr slurping them on the surface. As we quickly discover, some of the trout and charr become quite selective during these hatches, refusing all manner of enticement save an appropriate insect imitation. Using mouse flies is, of course, the ultimate “dry fly fishing” for big trout, and Kamchatka’s rainbows, when not actively feeding on insects or salmon roe, are more than willing to oblige us when we skate deerhair, fur and foam rodent imitations along the water’s edge. Nothing quite matches the excitement of a big hungry trout annihilating a large topwater fly, especially when you can see it coming! On the better days, some of my comrades snag a dozen beautiful trout fishing this way. The trout are spread out fairly evenly along the river, but there are definitely some hot spots where the action comes fast and furious. Besides the insect hatches, which provide some of the most exciting fishing, we look for salmon (this river, like many in Kamchatka, has a late run of sockeye that turn bright red and are easily seen) in their spawning beds of pea-sized gravel, because we know the opportunistic rainbows and Dolly Varden will be there in great numbers to steal the rich roe. These areas provide some of the most concentrated fishing imaginable; so many nice fish that you might wonder if you are catching the same ones over and over! From one such hole, a buddy fishing downstream takes 23 rainbows and Dolly Vardens without changing his position! Much has been said of the hefty size of Kamchatka’s rainbows. Overall, we found the average on this river to be a little over 20 inches, with the largest specimens (up to 30 inches) taken on the last few days of fishing when we floated through bigger water. Southern Kamchatka’s climate is warmer than Alaska, and the rich biota of available food sources no doubt are contributing factors. However, there may be a genetic component to the large size of these trout, too, as recent research on the life histories of these remarkable fish suggests. According to data accumulated over the last 10 years, many of Kamchatka’s rainbows spend some portion of the year in saltwater or estuaries. A small but significant number of fish live a good part of the time at sea and are very much like our steelhead along the eastern Pacific. The rainbow populations from rivers on the west side of the peninsula show a mix of life history variations, with river resident fish predominating in most systems. Fall run steelhead occur in varying numbers, and are taken incidentally during late September and early October. Other Fishing HighlightsKamchatka’s fabulous trout are certainly the main draw for anglers these days, but her rivers hold a variety of other species to round out the fishing. The Dolly Varden charr, of whom we encountered plenty on our trip, is a beautiful, hard fighter found in great numbers with the rainbow trout. It takes dry flies eagerly and is a great eating fish as well. East Siberian char, unique to Far East Russia, are called “kundzha” by the locals. Not nearly as plentiful as the Dolly Varden, and marked differently, they can get as large as 20 pounds or more in certain drainages. The ‘kundzha,” and most of the Dolly Varden, come in from the sea bright silver during early to late summer to feed heavily on salmon eggs and flesh, then remain in freshwater and develop brilliant spawning colors before breeding in late fall.
the possibilities expand to include chum, red and king salmon, plus another exotic found only in the Far East, particularly the cherry salmon or “masu.” As in Alaska, these fish can be taken using a variety of methods. Keep in mind that since most of the trout trips target areas upriver, most of the salmon encountered are in less than prime condition. In hopes of enticing serious salmon anglers and expanding their fishing programs, several tour operators now offer salmon fishing camps near the mouths of some of the more productive rivers. These camps offer rustic accommodations for sure, but they also provide exciting opportunities to explore other facets of Kamchatka’s pioneer fisheries. Reports from some of the first groups of anglers at these salmon camps are promising. Anglers do well using a six-weight fly rod for most of the fishing, with a backup like a seven- or eight-weight for stretches of heavier water or challenging casting conditions. Weight forward floating and medium density sink tip lines are most commonly used, with seven- to nine-foot leaders tapering to a 0-2X tippet. Kamchatka’s rainbows, like their counterparts in Alaska, are not the least bit leader shy, so you won’t need fluorocarbon. Compared to fishing other locations like the Rockies or New Zealand, Kamchatka really doesn’t require much in the way of expertise, other than perhaps knowing how to make basic wet fly swings and being able to cast a dry fly a short distance during hatches. Remember, these are big, wild hungry rainbows that are not the least sophisticated in their feeding habits. Folks with little fly-fishing experience, or even novices, can expect to do well here. One fellow on our trip, for instance, who essentially had done no fly-fishing before, was able to hook trout consistently by the second day with a bit of coaching. On the third day, after eating lunch below some boulder strewn rapids, and with some prompting from me, he tossed out a mouse pattern from the rocks above and took four hog belly rainbows in the same number of casts! River Trip, Russian StyleWhat makes these Kamchatka fishing trips so special, besides the awesome trout fishing and the stupendous country, is the chance to interact personally with natives and get a glimpse of Russian culture. The tours are American led, but run by the Russians. The guides are big, earthy guys with names like Sasha, Andrei and Sergei, who all have expert knowledge of the country and the fishing. They are seasoned woodsmen, used to hard work and making do, so their style of camping and floating a river is quite different than anything anglers may have experienced elsewhere. In addition to the guides, the staff includes at least one and sometimes two cooks - tough Russian girls who are fantastic at whipping up scrumptious meals from scratch, but who can hold their own among a group of guys out on the river, too.
We break camp usually by 9:00 and start fishing the river, wading and casting mostly, with some fishing from the rafts when we float over stretches of water that cannot be worked as well from shore. The “kitchen boat” always goes on by ahead of us and has hot lunch waiting for the group somewhere downriver. We fish until about 6:00 in the evening, and then the guides make camp. Dinner is an elaborate affair, several courses of Russian dishes served in a large dining tent, along with all the beer and vodka we can hold. Afterwards, some of the guys go fishing; some of them remain around camp, lounging by the fire under a large shelter our hosts erect to keep us out of the rain. Each day on the river is different, with changing country, weather and water conditions, as we make our way down from the mountains to the sea. The signs of fall bring a kaleidoscope of color and an almost poetic beauty to our surroundings, prompting endless expressions of awe and the recognition that in Kamchatka we may have found, if not the world’s best trout fishing, then surely the prettiest trout destination on the globe. We are lucky to be among the relatively few anglers to sample this paradise before it is spoiled. Like all great adventures, our fishing trip with the Russians ends too soon, and the last night on the river finds us around the fire, doing endless vodka toasts and recounting some of our fishing exploits upriver. The mood is light, but bittersweet. We are totally satisfied with our week of stupendous fishing, but know that after an experience like this, our favorite trout haunts back home will never seem the same. We’ll probably have to come back to Kamchatka to remind ourselves of what trout fishing was meant to be. That’s perfectly okay with me. Rene Limeres is a wilderness fishing guide and outdoors writer, with many years experience on the rivers of Southwest Alaska and Russia’s Far East. He has written numerous articles for major sporting publications and has a bestselling, award-winning book, Alaska Fishing: The Ultimate Angler’s Guide, 3rd Edition, available through bookstores and tackle and fly shops, or online at www.ultimaterivers.com Bring Your CameraKamchatka, like Alaska, is blessed with stupendous scenic beauty and abundant wildlife, so a good camera is as much a required piece of equipment as your fly rod. From the helicopter, and while on the water, anglers can expect good to excellent views of some of Kamchatka’s volcanoes (many of them active) along with opportunities to photograph big brown bears, Steller’s eagles, foxes, wolves, reindeer/caribou, moose and countless waterfowl. Be sure to bring a telephoto lens. If time allows, tour operators can arrange side trips to experience Kamchatka’s many other natural wonders and its interesting culture. There are nature preserves, volcano and geyser treks, natural hot springs, native dancing performances, museums, and open air markets and souvenir shops where visitors can view and purchase all manner of exotic goods, like locally carved wood and ivory, fur garments, amber jewelry, lacquer boxes, Kamchatka books and calendars and of course, excellent Russian vodka. 
Where To Toss The BagsTaking a trip to Russia is similar to going to any other foreign country these days; you’ll need a valid passport and tourist visa. Unlike many other places, however, you cannot go over and do an unsupervised, “do-it-yourself” vacation. You’ll need to hook up with a legitimate tour operator, of which at present there is only a handful catering exclusively to anglers. Most offer fully-guided, all-inclusive packages that begin from the main hub and seaport of Petropavlovsk, located on scenic Avacha Bay on the southeast coast. Travel to and from Petropavlovsk for the longest time was by direct flight service from Anchorage, Alaska, but for the last two years, a cancellation of flights has hampered the reliability of this convenient travel option. Many folks now access Kamchatka via connections from Seoul, Korea or Moscow, Russia, both of which can be easily reached from major hubs in Europe and the United States. Currently there are few choices as far as fishing programs go. One operation bases out of a rustic lodge on a famous river just east and slightly north of Petropavlovsk, and three companies fish out of elaborate base camps set up on strategic locations along some of the better rivers in the central part of the peninsula. All these operators use jet boats to access the most productive water. Anglers who want more adventure and time on the water can sign up for guided fishing expeditions by raft, exploring the remotest and wildest rivers in Kamchatka. It should be mentioned that all these sport fish operations are joint ventures between experienced American tour operators and Russian companies, so there is heavy investment in local economies and deep commitment to promoting an awareness of Russian culture and the natural wonders of Kamchatka. Many of the Russian guides you’ll meet on your trip are surprisingly adept fly-fishermen, but only a short while ago, their view of Kamchatka’s fishery resources did not extend much beyond subsistence. For most of the rivers, foreigners are required to comply with a strict catch and release regulation for all rainbow/steelhead trout. The Russians will keep some char or a salmon or two for eating, which they prepare in a variety of ways, all of them delicious. The cost of a trip to Kamchatka ranges from $3,500 to nearly $6,000 per week of guided fishing, depending on the program. Add to this airfare for travel to and from Russia, which can be anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500 depending on the route and point of origin. Additional fees are the fishing licenses (from $15-25/day), visa processing ($100), and gratuities. Trip cancellation and medivac insurance are highly recommended and even required by some outfitters. As there are no real sporting goods stores or fly shops in Kamchatka, anglers must come fully prepared for their fishing vacation. All the tour operators provide detailed lists of the personal gear and fishing equipment needed for their adventures. Layers of synthetic clothing, expedition quality outerwear and breathable waders comprise the standard river uniform for most of the season, with the exception of the hottest months (June and July), when lightweight, bug-repellent clothing and/or head nets are sometimes necessary. Don’t forget to bring sunscreen, bug dope and polarized glasses. Other Notes of InterestAbout RussiaFor additional facts visit: www.state.gov/p/eur/ci/rs/
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