Giant Salmon of Goodnews River

A visit to this Alaskan hideaway captures the essence of America’s Last Frontier. If you consider all five of Alaska’s salmon species, it’s arguable that the tidal reaches of one small river emptying into the Bering Sea 200 miles north of the Aleutian Islands offers the best in all-around availability.

Certainly better spots exist for any given single species elsewhere in the Pacific Northwest, but nowhere that I’ve fished in over 30 years of going to our 49th state provides better all-around species abundance.

This river appears on the maps in southwest Alaska as the Goodnews. Since it’s over 400 miles from the nearest paved road, the only access is by air. And since the Goodnews River Lodge is the only camp on the entire 80-mile length of the main branch (North Fork) of the river (one other lodge has a small spike camp a long way up the Middle Fork), it offers exclusive access not only to all five species of salmon, but also rainbow trout, massive numbers of Dolly Vardens, and some trophy-size grayling as well. The third branch of the Goodnews is the short South Fork, too small for an established lodge but accessible via small jet boats. It too offers several species of salmon and also rainbow trout.

The lodge is on the North Fork, right at the upper end of tidewater and about five miles from the mouth. This puts it right in the middle of the best of the river’s fishing, with miles of tidewater downstream where most of the biggest kings, silvers, pinks and chum salmon are caught. The lodge also lies a short distance below an endless number of productive upstream spots where Dolly Varden, rainbow trout and grayling will be encountered. The lodge provides one guide per two anglers, and I can attest to the fact that these guides know when to fish the best spots for whatever you want to target.

The Salmon Runs

The Goodnews is noted for one of the best king salmon runs in Alaska. The fish average larger than most other rivers, typically 30 to 35 pounds. The camp record is 73, but over 40 is quite common and over 50 happens every year. Because the river features a shallow, low-gradient stream, it’s also ideal for fly fishing. My largest on that tackle to date is 58 ½ pounds, but I’ve had several much larger manage to get rid of the fly. One of them was as large and as aerial as a big tarpon. On a good day a fly-fishing angler will hook a dozen or more and land most of them. Plug trollers often average almost twice that number. The king season starts in mid-June and lasts through mid-July, with a few stragglers into early August.

All of the salmon runs overlap, so there’s always a chance you can catch more than one species on any given day. Massive numbers of 8- to 15-pound chrome-bright chum salmon begin to appear by the second week July, rapidly invading sloughs and backwater spots in tidewater where they hold for several weeks before starting their spawning run up river. Anglers familiar with the uninspired fight offered by dark spawning chums in other rivers are always pleasantly surprised by the energetic aerial brawl typical of these fish, who will often readily take surface flies as well as subsurface lures on light spinning tackle. The peak of the chum run lasts through the end of July.

If the year is even numbered (such as 2004, 2006, 2008), you can expect seemingly endless numbers of pink salmon; for reasons known only to these fish, just a few stragglers appear during odd-numbered years. They arrive in the lower river fired up and spoiling for a fight, averaging about four pounds but occasionally topping eight. Pinks will eagerly attack a wide range of small lures and flies, at times even on the surface. Fly rodders find these jumpers very exciting on 3- to 5-weight gear.

The Goodnews is not known as a major river for sockeye salmon, but over the last few years their numbers have been increasing dramatically. The best fishery for these uncommonly strong salmon is just a few miles upstream from the camp, where they can be caught with fly and light spinning tackle. They start showing in mid-July and continue through early August.

Very few rivers in Alaska come even close to matching the Goodnews in terms of the size of the silver salmon run. Silvers begin to straggle in during the last half of July, and the run typically goes into high gear by the end of the first week of August. It continues well past the closing of the camp in mid-September. Several other rivers produce larger silvers, but rarely the numbers. They typically average 8 to 12 pounds; 15 pounds or more isn’t uncommon, and the camp record stands at 22 ½ pounds.

Silver salmon are at their best when saltwater-strong in tidewater, and it’s not uncommon for an angler to catch 30 or more in a single day. These represent the most aggressive members of the salmon family, readily striking a wide range of flies and lures that include floating flies and poppers on the surface. Tidewater silvers are noted for a strong and often long run, usually punctuated with a lot of aerial activity.

I enjoy Alaska fishing the most when I can match my tackle to the size of the species I’m seeking, but often this leads to unexpected excitement. A few years ago I was drifting downriver casting for rainbow trout with a 5-weight rod and 10-pound-test tippet. As we passed through a deep hole, I spotted a large number of big king salmon holding there, and as a joke I tossed my black streamer right into their midst. I don’t know who was more surprised – me or the guide – when one of the larger kings ate it without hesitation. We immediately beached the boat on a gravel bar and I got out to deal with this considerable challenge. After 30 minutes of careful maneuvering through one long run after another, the light tippet managed to stay in one piece. I finally slid a 42-pound king into shallow water where my young guide held it long enough for a photograph before the release.

Grand Slams And More

Who wouldn’t like to catch a Grand Slam: all five species in a single day? A number of anglers achieve this outstanding accomplishment every year. The secret is choosing the right time of the season and setting out each morning with the determination to get it done. The chances are good during the last two weeks of July and the first week in August, with perhaps the last week of July the best of all. If you can make this happen entirely on fly tackle, you will have truly joined an exclusive group of anglers.

The Goodnews also enjoys an exceptional run of Dolly Varden, a close relative to the Artic char. This runs starts in mid-July and lasts through September. Unlike the salmons, these will be fished upriver rather than tidewater, where they remain to spawn in the fall, and in the process change from bright silver to an incredibly beautiful bright orange with a dark gray back and pink spots along the sides. These wonderful fish average two pounds, but have been caught as large as 12 pounds. Perhaps best of all, they readily take flies on the surface like trout and put up a strong, sometimes above-surface fight. Many knowledgeable fly-fishing anglers bring very light rods (2- to 4-weight) especially for this. Cooked fresh, many rate them higher than any salmon as table fare.

Although I would not classify the Goodnews as a major rainbow trout watershed, it does produce many good ‘bows every season, and the numbers appear to be increasing. Most average 18 to 22 inches, but some over 25 are brought in each year plus occasionally one that tops 30. The camp record is 35 inches (about 16 pounds), so some big rainbows lurk and they’re found in all three forks of the river.
I encounter trophy-size grayling (20 inches or better) in this river, but it requires a lot of work to find them. Still, this not a wasted day if I don’t get lucky, because I’ll still encounter many other species in the process.

Fly fishing anglers will need 9- to 11-weight rods for the big kings; all other salmon and rainbow trout can be successfully fished with 5- to 8-weights. If you plan to specifically target Dolly Varden, a 2- to 4-weight rod with floating line is perfect. King salmon tend to hold in the deeper holes, so you’ll want fast-sinking 500- to 600-grain lines. For all others, a multi-tip fly line with a floating, clear, neutral density and either a slow-sinking or fast-sinking tip represents the best all-around solution.
King salmon will also be caught by trolling with medium-weight bait casting or spinning gear and 20-pound-test line. Light spinning or bait casting with 10- or 12-pound test works fine for all other species.

Goodnews River Lodge operates entirely via small, fast outboard jet boats (one guide and two anglers) and at least one drift boat (also one guide plus two anglers), thus weather is never a factor as it often can be with fly-out lodges. The drift boat is used for daily float trips in the upper river; a big jet boat transports the drift boat and crew up to a pre-selected departure point where the fishing is known to be good. It’s an all-day trip, a quiet float through unspoiled wilderness that not only offers outstanding fishing, but also unusually good wildlife viewing as well.

The odds are good that you will see caribou, brown bear, otter, beaver, fox, maybe even a moose or two and abundant bird life. All of this is possible because the upper half of the river lies within the Togiak Wildlife Refuge. At times you’re treated to an exceptionally close encounter. Recently we headed downstream aboard a small, fast jet boat on a small tributary of the Goodnews River. Since we were also headed directly into the wind, I realized this would be a good chance to come upon wildlife. As we rounded the many river bends, I clutched a camera. Sure enough, right past a sharp bend we spotted three large caribou starting to cross the river. I snapped some great photos as they splashed past the boat just a few yards away.

Fishing is either from the jet boats or by wading. Because the Goodnews is a small, shallow river without fast currents and very few large rocks, it’s also a very easy stream to wade. While most of the king salmon fishing takes place from a boat, all of the other species are very accessible on foot.
The lodge also offers one-week guided float trips upriver. All of the necessary gear is furnished; a large inboard jet boat transports anglers, rubber rafts and camping equipment to a pre-selected starting point in the lower half of the river where the fishing is good at that time. The trip is six days and nights, although there’s also an option to float for three days and spend the last three fishing days at the camp.

The angling options are almost endless on this small river in some of Alaska’s most remote wilderness, which is precisely why I’ve been coming here every summer for the last 27 years.

Where to Toss the Bags

Transportation from Anchorage and back is via charter aircraft. Flights leave every Wednesday, departing Anchorage at around 9 a.m. and returning in mid-afternoon. The roundtrip charter flight from Anchorage to the camp is included.

This is a true wilderness camp, but nevertheless it offers important comforts we all want. The 10 cabins will each hold two people, and consist of steel-framed, weatherproof canvas. The cabins are built on individual platforms elevated six feet above ground and thermostatically controlled propane heat. Padded cots offer flannel sheets and thick comforters for a snug sleep. The hardwood floors are carpeted. A six-room bathroom facility lies next to the main lodge building; each has a chemical toilet, plus a sink and shower with hot water.

Since waders, boots and coveralls commonly get wet by day’s end, the lodge provides a unique drying room that features heated air-jet dryers. The main building offers a large lounge and dining room, plus a kitchen and food storage facility. Breakfasts and dinners are wonderfully prepared by a well-qualified chef. If you choose to come in for lunch, there’s always a big pot of hot soup and lots of coffee. For take-out lunches you prepare your own sandwich or two at a large table loaded with a variety of meats, cheeses, fruits and more. Your guide will bring plenty of hot coffee, hot water and cold drinking water.
The camp furnishes all the lures or flies you need as part of the package, but if you prefer to tie your own flies or just wish to experiment, there’s a tying bench with numerous materials available for your use in the main room.

This is primarily a catch-and-release camp, but if you wish to bring home a reasonable amount of fish, the camp has the freezer capacity and provides suitable boxes. It’s still a good idea to take along a small cooler if your trip home will take more than a few hours.

The camp has a limited supply of extra waders and fishing tackle (including fly), but it’s still a good idea to bring your own. Waders are a must if you plan to do a lot of fishing afoot, otherwise hip boots will suffice if you prefer to stay in the boat. The temperature can range from 30 to 80 F, but typically it’s in the low 40s at daybreak and the high 60s by early afternoon. Layered clothing is best, starting with comfortable thermal underwear. Rain is also a common event, so bring good foul-weather gear.

Rates per person for the weekly (Wednesday to Wednesday) trips run $3,900 for the 7-day float and $4,850 to $6,250 for the main camp, depending upon the week you choose. For more specifics and updates, contact the Goodnews River Lodge at 800-274-8371or visit www.epicfishing.com. You can also access Alaska’s Department of Fish & Game at www.adfg.state.ak.us/.

Bring the Camera

Alaska. It’s everything you’ve heard about and more. While you can spend days dedicated solely to sightseeing, I commonly see a huge variety of wildlife and enjoy endless vistas of gorgeous scenery just in the process of fishing.

The remoteness of Goodnews River Lodge means you won’t find crowds of anglers or tourists. While fishing is of course the main activity, hikers can choose from half- and full-day excursions, with terrain varying from coastal to inland along the hills. Whether fishing or just walking around, be prepared at any time to snap images of bears, caribou, moose, walrus, seals, beaver, fox and a dizzying array of bird life – sometimes several species appearing in the area at the same time. If you have a camera that allows it, be sure to also bring along a telephoto lens of 200 to 300 millimeters or more.

Speaking of bears, grizzlies certainly are commonly viewed. But don’t let the fear of a bear encounter prevent visiting here. A Goodnews River Lodge guest has never experienced a dangerous scrape with a bear. Bears tend to avoid humans and scamper off usually before they’re seen. Others might stay in the area but keep an eye on us, content to share the river if they perceive no threat. Your guide will be armed just in case, but in all my years of coming here, not even one shot has been fired.

The nearby Native American Reservation hosts the proud Yupiks – the largest tribe in Alaska. Their influence is evident in many aspects of the Alaskan culture. They maintain their colorful heritage, and many still speak the native language. As has been the case with generations of their ancestors, Yupiks utilize the resources by fishing, hunting and creating exquisite crafts.

Bio

Miamian Bob Stearns earned a degree in meteorology and served in the Navy as a weather officer. He’s contributed over 1,500 articles for publications such as Yachting, Field & Stream, Outdoor Life, Sports Afield, Salt Water Sportsman and many others. Bob remains a full-time writer/photographer and also serves as a consultant to the fishing/boating industry.