Great Barrier Reef Bounty

Shove off from Cairns and duke it out Aussie style in these legendary marlin waters. Many world-class billfish anglers regard Cairns as the one of the greatest big-game fishing capitals of the world.

And with good reason – more black marlin in the 1,000-pound-plus class come to boat side off the Great Barrier Reef than anywhere else. From September to December each year, anglers arrive from all points of the globe to this Far North Queensland city, hoping to battle huge female marlin affectionately referred to as Granders or Julies.

It’s quite a big deal, and it costs big bucks. At the peak of the black marlin season, anglers willing to spend $2,500 and more a day arrive full of enthusiasm and with thick wallets, and few go home disappointed. The high rollers not only charter game boats, they also stay at sea on live-aboard mother ships, which can double the cost of the trip. Add in airfares, accommodations and spending time enjoying the special Australian ambiance, and we can be reaching amounts here that look like telephone numbers.

Despite all the dollars that many can afford, an average angler can get in on the action with a little know-how and perseverance. It’s quite possible to fish Cairns on a budget by sharing charters and staying in budget accommodations. The costs to a half dozen anglers, for example, fishing for marlin for a week is about the same as staying at a lodge in the Northern Territory and pursuing barramundi in the interior. It’s not cheap, mind you, but it’s definitely manageable if you’re intent on living the dream of an Australian fishing adventure.

The marlin boom in Cairns began precisely on September 25, 1966. On a crew’s off day, fishing mate Richard C. Obach aboard the Sea Bay with Captain George Bransford reeled in a world record 1,064-pound marlin off Euston Reef. Word spread throughout the fishing world like ink dripped in water. Cairns, representing the jumping-off point to the Great Barrier Reef, soon found its docks swollen with anglers as eager as prospectors hot on a gold rush.

Today, black marlin fishing alone is a $10 million annual business, inevitably attracting well-known anglers such as Lee Marvin, Ernest Borgnine, Jack Nicklaus and Greg Norman, to name just a few.

I’m no less an addict, even if only casually watching the action at times. A few years ago I did a stint as an observer in a major Cairns tournament. These events attract big money and seriously dedicated competitors. Strict rules had to be followed, and thus the observers placed on each boat to ensure everyone abided by the same rules. Accordingly, things can get dicey. On one of the boats, an angler caught a big marlin, but under the tournament rules the leader line needed to kept so it could be examined by the tournament committee. An unknowing deckhand’s decision to toss the leader over the side on the way back to port cost that angler $32,000 in prize money. I sure wouldn’t have liked to be that deckie.

More Than A One-Species Fishery

Although black marlin take the spotlight, other stars can make for exciting sport-fishing options. Most of that action takes place between 30 and 45 kilometers (about 18 to 28 miles) offshore, inside the Great Barrier Reef and near the reef openings. Here I enjoy light-tackle fights with juvenile black marlin and sailfish to about 50 kilograms (110 pounds) as well as Spanish mackerel and tuna.

I recently went on such a trip with Cairns-based tackle guru Jack Erskine, who needed to field test some new Penn reels. With a southeasterly wind blowing about 10 to 15 knots and the seas a moderate chop, skipper Ross Finlayson reduced speed on the Sea Baby IV to about eight knots and signaled deckhand Glen Campbell to feed out teasers and baits. The spread consisted of two skipping garfish spring-rigged with skirts and 10/0 hooks, a swimming mullet, and a Boone daisy chain teaser sporting five plastic squid with a small Watson’s tuna rigged to skip behind the fray.

We began the troll a couple of kilometers west of Pixie Reef and about 20 nautical miles northeast of Cairns. In the game-chair rod holder sat a 12-kilogram (26-pound) rig at the ready with a leader attached to a baitfish swimming around in a plastic container. As the Sea Baby IV swam down sea, Jack and fellow angler Lindsay Dobe watched from the aft deck while on the fly bridge former skipper Laurie Woodridge stood alongside Ross. Anticipation gripped us all as everyone eyed off the lures, waiting and wishing for a sailfish or marlin to rise.

Less than an hour into the fishing day, a small black marlin made a move on one of the garfish. Laurie spotted it right off and Ross gave urgent instructions to haul in the baits.

“You ready, Jack?” Ross called. By now we could all see the slim, streamlined shape of the marlin cutting across the lures and baits, moving left and right across the stern. The beaky seemed undecided. Jack dropped the live baitfish into the wake and free-spooled line, relying on Ross’s keen eyes to tell him when the bait would be in front of the marlin. That live bait proved to be the trigger that pulled the marlin out of its indecision.

“He’s got it!” yelled Ross. “Let him take some line, Jack. More line, more … now give it to him.”

At that, Jack flipped the bail arm over, waited for the line to tighten and set the hook – all done to perfection. Then again, Jack’s had plenty of practice, having caught more than 400 marlin and sailfish on light tackle. He worked the rod low and maintained control over the billfish. It may have been only about 25 kilograms (55 pounds), but the runs and jumps were still magic and dueling any size marlin on relatively light tackle is a sweet option.

Line sizzled through the guides and the drag system purred under each shortening run. After 10 minutes, the fish came alongside and Glen leaned over, took hold of the bill and gently lifted the marlin so the hook could be removed and the fish revived until released unharmed. From lift to release took less than a minute, and off went the little black marlin no worse for the wear. We raised three more marlin that day; the biggest fish looked to be about 50 kilograms (110 pounds), but it managed to eat two baits without us succeeding in a hook up. But this is offshore sight fishing at its best.

The bait-and-switch method – universal as it may be – is simple and effective. If a predator rises and takes a trolled lure or bait, that’s great; if the fish rises in the spread but doesn’t look convinced, a live bait is fed out while the other lines are reeled in.

Despite the consistent availability of this sort of action, Ross and Laurie become frustrated at times. “Most people come up here for the big blacks in October and November,” Ross said, “but Cairns has a lot more to offer than 1,000-pound marlin. Plus, you can catch the horses in September and December just as well.”

Early that day we also released two sailfish while trolling an area known as Onyx Reef. About an hour before the tide change, Ross maneuvered the Sea Baby onto a seamount and we started laying a cube (chum) trail. Hook-ups occurred often on scaly and Spanish mackerel as well as bottom fish like red bass. The mackerel action in particular seemed to go on as long as we fed out baits. The macks take off like express trains and line fairly sings as it cuts through the water. Fortunately these fish are tasty boot, which is just as well because it’s quite the job to remove a hook from the razor-lined jaws of a still-frisky combatant.

All in the Timing

Black marlin season runs from September to December along the outer edge of the Great Barrier Reef from Cairns to Lizard Island. The best results often come in the late afternoon starting at about 2 p.m. Depending on the location and the degree of difficulty getting back to anchorage, most boats fish as late as 6.30 p.m.

The usual set-up involves two rods trolled from the outriggers and up to four rods pulling lures. Top baits include scad, bonito, scaly mackerel, Spanish mackerel, yellowfin tuna, queenfish and rainbow runner. While baits can go to 30 pounds when monster blacks appear, the typical offering weighs one to five pounds for swimming scads and 8 to 12 for skip baits; most should be trolled just under and on the surface at about six knots.

Don’t forget that blue marlin cruise these same waters, offering an exciting alternative from January to April after the black marlin season closes. Most blues succumb to trolled lures although a good many baits work as well such as skipjack and yellowfin tuna.

Our winter months (May to September) are best for Spanish mackerel and juvenile black marlin up to 100 pounds. Warmer months (October to March) provide good fishing for wahoo, big Spanish mackerel, sailfish and black marlin up to 250 pounds.

Jigging and popper-casting enthusiasts target May to January along the Great Barrier Reef. Anglers jig the offshore shoals, reef edges and the Continental Shelf. It’s a lucky dip of species that includes yellowfin and dogtooth tuna, wahoo, Spanish mackerel, amberjack, giant trevally, coral trout and mangrove jacks. Short, fast-taper rods with reels spooled with braided lines seem to be the most popular with jigs of many styles and colors. Popper tackle consists of stiff 7- to 8-foot spinning rods and large-capacity reels, again with braided line and large surface poppers that give a splashy sound that attracts many aggressive species.

Fly-fishing aficionados can enjoy year-round action, although May to January will see the most activity. Black marlin and sailfish represent blue-water favorites with the bait-and-switch technique on beefy 12- to 14-weight gear. Dual-hook Flashy Profile flies, large multi-hackled poppers and tube flies get plenty of attention. Somewhat lighter fly tackle results in many catches of Spanish mackerel, cobia, small yellowfin and bluefin tuna, and false albacore; go with baitfish-imitating patterns with intermediate or fast-sinking lines.

We’ve yet to even touch upon estuary and freshwater fishing, which is fabulous throughout North Queensland. I fished a June day with guide Kieran Livingstone when dark clouds hung low in the valley and blocked the sunlight, turning the normally verdant mountains gray. We decided to take a punt on Russell Heads, the junction and estuary system of the Russell and Mulgrave rivers. The ramp displayed the usual “Beware of Crocodiles” warning.

Kieran walked down the ramp and pointed a torch beam into the undercut bank – just to make sure. He explained that recently the local ranger had taken his Jack Russell terrier for a walk. As usual, he tossed a stick into the river and the little yapper went after it. On this morning, however, his dog came frantically scooting out of the water, the stick firmly in its mouth and about four meters of lizard taking dead aim at its derriere. Fortunately the dog and ranger escaped, but only barely.

The fishing at Russell Heads turned out to be a bit slow at first. We worked around the edges, casting to banks and snags. No barramundi made an appearance, but we snared a few bream and cod until a school of queenfish arrived to crash our small poppers and saltwater flies. The queens leaped several times between long dashes for freedom.

Queenfish, while quite pretty to behold, are a bit skinny. While none of our catch measured under a meter (three feet) or so in length, weights only ranged from 7 to 10 kilograms (about 15 to 22 pounds). The wind blew, rain fell and yet the fishing action went on relentlessly for more than three hours. Add the exceptional beauty of land converging with water, and you can’t ask for much more.

Offshore, nearshore and inshore, you’ve probably become rightly convinced that coming to Cairns is well worth the expense and trouble. Although odds at tangling with a big black marlin rank high, plenty of other species make any trip to this fabulous, famous fishing area something each angler will always treasure.

Where to Toss the Bags

What can you say about an area that offers the world’s largest reef system, exotic barrier islands, endless beaches and tropical rainforests? Cairns represents the jumping-off point to them all, framed between a mountain range and the South Pacific’s Coral Sea.

Cairns offers about 5,000 rooms from 5-star properties to budget and packpacker options. For those desiring secluded retreats, check out Fitzroy Island, Green Island, Bedarra Island, Dunk Island, Lizard Island, Double Island, Hinchinbrook Island, and Orpheus Island to Poruma Island.

The city’s Esplanade sports a gigantic swimming lagoon plus chic eateries and clubs. Take in the surrounding timber-board walks, beautiful gardens and lovely views across Trinity Inlet. Cityport features the Cairns Convention Centre in the south section and the Marlin Marina in the north; the marina has become a virtual waterfront tourism magnet as well as a main springboard to the Great Barrier Reef. The city’s enormous seaport – Australia’s busiest – hosts super yachts and cruise lines.

Cairns International Airport serves as a direct link to Japan, Asia, Europe, Papua New Guinea, New Zealand and North America. Domestic airlines access all of Australia’s major cities plus regional destinations.

Bring the Camera

You can stay at a lodge or B&B in the rainforest and embark upon 4WD safaris to see crocodiles sunning themselves among the mangroves. North of Port Douglas sits the Mossman Gorge where the Mossman River tumbles under a suspension bridge and over huge granite boulders. Just past the picturesque Wonga Beach is the quaint Daintree Village with its yesteryear character and arts and crafts shops. Hop aboard the Daintree River Ferry into the Daintree National Park and move along a winding road leading north past Cow Bay, the breathtaking Alexandra Range, the Coopers Creek wilderness area and Cape Tribulation.

The Cairns Highlands, about an hour’s drive south, provides a country retreat and romantic getaway. Prospect for gold, bask in picturesque swimming holes and enjoy charming villages and towns peppered throughout the mountains, rivers, lakes, volcanic peaks and craters.

Culture-seekers will be fascinated by the Aboriginal, Thursday Islander and Torres Strait Islander people, which offer some of Australia’s best aboriginal experiences. You can enjoy tours revealing prehistoric and modern artworks, body painting, bush foods and medicines, customs and festivals.

Hikers will find scenic strolls along rainforest boardwalks and sites around Cairns, Port Douglas, Kuranda, the Cairns Highlands, the Misty Mountains trails and the Wet Tropics Great Walk near Mission Beach.

Diving the Great Barrier Reef necessitates buying or renting a good underwater camera to capture images of the myriad sea life and coral reef color shows. Choose from day trips to live-aboard dive vessels for up to a week or more. Of course all levels of divers can partake in the trips, with a great many dive operators offering all gear needed plus guided trips – there’s safety in numbers.

Landlubbers will appreciate the Great Tropical Drive that incorporates the stunning coastal road through Cairns to Cooktown, Innisfail and Port Douglas. You’ll find lots of stop points for picture taking. Same with all the rural and outback communities of Mareeba, Atherton and Charters Towers.

For more details about Cairns tourism, visit http://www.tropicalaustralia.com.au/; for Queensland tourism, http://www.destinationfish.travel/www.tq.com.au.

Bio
Steve Cooper, a former investigative journalist, writes regular fishing columns in three Australian newspapers as well as two magazines. A native of Geelong, Australia, he’s authored several books and hosts a weekly radio show in Melbourne.