Jurrasic Giants

Visit Costa Rica’s Guanacaste Province for explosive encounters with prehistoric denizens of the deep.

The tide had just turned and was slowly pushing toward the open ocean as we made our way up the coast. I was told that the peak of the reef we were headed to reached close to 50-feet below the surface.

The pinnacle was one in a series of volcanic peaks which sit so close to shore that it's hard to believe the bottom topography can slope so quickly within a stone’s throw of the beach. Most of the submerged mountains here are fairly generic, but one thing's for sure, unlike most fishing charters on the open seas where you just have water to look at with the occasional flying-fish, the inshore volcanic terrain off Costa Rica's Guanacaste Province exhibits incredible surface activity and offers prime habitat for baitfish and crustaceans and the countless vicious predators that feed on them. The prime piscatorial hunting grounds also host a variety of marine-like invertebrates and colorful anemones, which, of course, combine to keep the juvenile fish happy and the entire stretch a real fish magnet.

We made our morning jaunt from Flamingo Beach – a top tourist destination 47 miles southwest of the city of Liberia – aboard the 42-foot Plautus, a newly renovated fish-fighting machine worth more than $1 million after its recent overhaul. The trip from Flamingo to the fishing grounds was about an hour and a half towards the Nicaraguan border. The Plautus sliced through the small waves like a hot knife through butter as we were humored by the booby birds occasionally picking off small baitfish from the white water we left in our wake. We could have stopped many times to fish, though I was told that truly big fish, the bottom dwellers we were after, were much more prevalent where we were heading further to the north.

A World Beyond our Time

As we traveled by the never-ending clusters of lush tropical islands and mainland shorelines, I could see why they filmed portions of Jurassic Park in this part of the world. The atmosphere gave off a mysteriously haunting aura, so untouched, so solitary that it seemed as if I was suddenly thrust back millions of years when dinosaurs ruled the earth. Completely mesmerized by the surrounding perfection, I glazed upon the soaring green mountains and admired where the jungle brush met the sea, wondering what crevice T-Rex might have crashed through.

Arriving at our destination, we heard the roar of the diesels calm to a purr. The mates quickly had the gear set with a spread of live baits like they’ve done a thousand times before. Baits were big, just as I like them, and spunky, too. Bonito, lookdowns, mullet – all were deployed as we started our slow troll. Target species were roosterfish, giant jacks and cubera snapper – all of which reportedly reach mammoth proportions.

As I was inquiring about this and that, one of the baits erupted out of the water with a massive boil behind it. Then like a severe train wreck, a silver and black flash exploded on the helpless offering, throwing spray in every direction. “Rooster!” the Captain shouted. Suddenly, line screamed off the reel. In one smooth motion I grabbed the rod and secured it in my rod belt. It seemed as though for the moment, the circle-hook had done its job.

Wow, this fish was a serious slob! I knew it was, as I’ve taken plenty of powerful fish on stand-up gear in the past. When the rooster sounded, I believe it was intent on diving straight to the base of the rising pinnacle hundreds of feet below, but instead, it decided to come up slow and easy. Just as I thought I was in the lead, I felt massive head shakes that would literally shake the rod tip a foot or more, and we’re talking a stout rod! The determined fish took sometime to reign in, but I endured and after about 15 more minutes, we could see color when the exquisitely barred rooster came to the surface with his dorsal fin proudly spread in the crystal clear water.

For those who don’t know, make no mistake; mature roosterfish are tough fighters on even the stoutest of tackle. Being involved with the IGFA, Billfish Safaris, our outfitter, makes sure they have top-quality equipment on board for potential world-records. All of the reels we fished that day were loaded with fresh 30lb. tested ANDE. The fight this rooster gave was admirable to say the least and with a few more cranks, the 2nd mate finally grabbed the leader, reached over the gunwale, and hauled in the trophy gayo. After a few quick photos, we carefully released the magnificent fish back into the beautiful deep blue.

Hours later, I was introduced to the man who practically put Flamingo Beach on the map, James Harless II, owner of Billfish Safaris, along with his wife, Sjon, who is fairly new to the hunt for big fish but clearly has a passion for angling. She already has numerous world-records and a few tournament championships under her belt. James, however, is not only an accomplished angler, but somewhat of a local celebrity. Ask anyone in Flamingo about him and I have no doubt they’ll crack a smile and say he’s nothing less than a pillar of the community. From his development of local businesses, including restaurants and hotels, James has had a lot to do with making this area the pristine piece of paradise it is today.

This world-class fishing destination is home to the largest marina in Costa Rica and is situated on the country’s Gold Coast, about 45-minutes from Liberia International Airport. Everything in Flamingo is picture perfect. The town is filled with friendly people, quaint restaurants with great cuisine and, of course, phenomenal angling opportunities. Billfish Safaris has the boats to make your trip a memorable one. Known for many record catches and various fishing vacation packages, Billfish Safari’s manager, Darryl Furton, has assembled top-notch fishing teams that know how to get you on the bite. An owner of one of Costa Rica’s registered weigh stations; he’s seen many records broken in the past 15 years and knows that this stretch of coastline alone has claimed more than 40.

Anglers trolling the surrounding blue waters off Flamingo are often treated to exciting sea life, including humpback, pilot and pods of killer whales migrating south, sea turtles and even manta rays. My weakness, however, is inshore where I can connect with Jurassic fish one drop after another. Fishing this prolific terrain, I can only imagine what a sight it must have been millions of years ago when the volcanoes blasted out of the ocean floor piling rocks and lava for hundreds of miles creating what is now known as Central America. This phenomenon also created an underwater maze of formations that many species of game fish call home and frequently feed in during their migratory routes. The entire western shore of Costa Rica is made up of these spectacular coastline works of nature. They are home to an untold number of varieties, which is what fishing in Costa Rica is all about.

Infinite Fishability

Offshore, the bottom formations that rise hundreds of above the ocean floor attract baitfish that start the predator-prey relationship. Pelagic marlin, sailfish, tuna, and dolphin are notorious for taking advantage of the feeding opportunities here. One of the exciting things about Costa Rica is that these popular species can be taken year-round, which is why the region’s fishability is respected all over the world. This is mainly due to the continental shelf starting 18-miles to the west of Flamingo where the water depth drops from 360-feet to 3,600-feet. A few more miles west and the Pacific floor plummets to more than 10,000-feet!

Game fish populations in this region move up and down the coast, and although the main season is considered to be from April through December, off Nicoya in particular, January and February produce some of the best marlin bites found anywhere on the globe. Most of the offshore fishing takes place out of Playa Carrillo where you can escape the Papagayo winds that often blow during that time of year. If you want roosters, giant snapper and jacks however, with a mix of billfish, the summer months are best.

For serious anglers looking for a rewarding destination with ceaseless catches of a infinite variety, Costa Rica’s Guanacaste Province stands at the top. The fishing experience and panoramic vistas set against the volcanic mountain crests are enough to produce jaw-dropping reactions from the most jaded of travelers. It’s hard to put into words the kind of place this really is, mainly because it is so breathtaking that words alone don’t do it justice. It’s simply one of those destinations you have to experience to truly appreciate.

Henry Waszczuk has traveled around the globe for the last 24 years experiencing the best of the best in fishing destinations, resorts, lodges and golf venues. He has produced and hosted over 1000 sport fishing TV episodes and today his black & white stalking segments are known as a trademark to the excitement of Fishing the Flats. The other TV Series he produces is called Fins & Skins Classic Adventures. For years, Henry has created the formula for outdoor success with a unique blend of education, entertainment and conservation.

Where To Toss The Bags

Flamingo Beach, also known as “Playa Blanca” (white beach) is home to some of the greatest hotels within Costa Rica, including the Flamingo Marina Resort. The two stone-embedded markers and hand-carved wooden signs that mark the entrance to the resort characterize its relaxed, unassuming atmosphere. As guests make their way toward the spacious, open-air lobby at the far end of the driveway, they are greeted by friendly staff. In all, there are 35 rooms and suites spread out over two levels, all with ocean views. In addition, the resort offers 20 low-rise beach and luxury apartments nestled in behind the main building. The lobby has several quaint “hacienda” storefronts that house a boutique, dive shop, activities/tour center, real estate office and more.

Flamingo Marina Resort
800.276.7501
www.flamingomarina.com

The Flamingo Beach Resort is a beautiful, first class deluxe oceanfront hotel. There are no hills to climb or long distances to walk to reach the crystal-clear, blue waters of the Pacific Ocean here. The rooms are tastefully furnished and spacious with private baths, air-conditioning and satellite television. Each room has its own private balcony, most with spectacular ocean views.

Flamingo Beach Resort
011+506.654.4444
www.resortflamingobeach.com

Paradisus Playa Conchal and the Four Seasons down the road offer the highest level of distinguished service. From the moment you check in, it’s evident you’ve entered a world of privilege. Each resort is designed with a rich, elegant village look with first class rooms and facilities focused on an impressive five-star fishing vacation. If you stay here, Billfish Safaris will pick you up right on the beach every morning.

Paradisus Playa Conchal
800.333.9361
www.paradisusplayaconchal.travel

Four Seasons Hotel – Guanacaste
011+506.696.0000
www.fourseasons.com

Billfish Safaris
Fishing Costa Rica’s Northwest Pacific Coast.
www.billfishsafaris.com

Bring Your Camera

Fiesta time in Costa Rica runs from the end of November to the end of July. Every weekend, small towns and cozy villages feature bull riding and traditional Latin dancing accompanied by an array of Costa Rican cultural dishes. Guanacaste’s dry tropical forest is one of most endangered ecosystems in the world. Guides will introduce you to the unique plants and animals of the region like the exotic howler monkeys and white-nosed coati as well as the colorful culture of the Guanacastos.

In Tamarindo, Baula National Park offers a variety of jungle adventures including zip-lining through the treetops of primal forest 100-feet off the ground. There you can also embark on a two hour boat ride exploring the region’s saltwater wildlife refuge. The giant mangrove swamps provide a natural protected habitat for a wide variety of exotic birds, monkeys, caimans, crocodiles, iguanas and land crabs. You may also witness the unbelievable spectacle of thousands of Ridley and giant leatherback turtles laying their eggs under the light of the moon. The tour is led by experienced bilingual guides and includes refreshments and transportation from the principal hotels.

Tabacon Hot Springs – natural geothermal springs fed by the Tabacon River – could very well be at the top of the list of things to do in Costa Rica. Amazingly, the heat comes from the nearby Arenal Volcano.

Other Notes of Interest

About Costa Rica

• Capital: San Jose
• Population: 4,133,884
• Official Languages: Spanish
• Government: Constitutional Democracy
• Area: 19,730 sq mi
• Currency: Costa Rican Colon (517.93 Colons = $1.00 US)

In 1502, on his fourth and last voyage to the New World, Christopher Columbus made the first European landfall in the area. The United States and Costa Rica have a history of close and friendly relations. The country generally supports the U.S. in international fora, especially in the areas of democracy and human rights.