Lake Lunkers

Arctic fishing in Nunavut

Global warming has been in the news a lot lately, but whoever is in charge of it forgot to send the memo to some remote regions of Canada’s Arctic. Ice-out near the Arctic Circle happened very late in the summer of 2007.

When I arrived at an outpost fishing camp on the northwest corner of Nunavut’s Dubawnt Lake in mid-July, the majority of the immense water body was still covered in ice. This fact would present us with some difficulties in getting to many of the lake’s early season hot-spots, but at least the ice had retreated from some of the bays close to the camp.

I knew from experience that chances to encounter hard-fighting trophy lake trout were still good and cool breezes blowing off the ice would keep the Arctic’s legendary swarms of biting insects at bay. When it comes to fishing in the Arctic, you have to focus on the positives.

My companions for the first four days of the Dubawnt fishing season were Barb and Paul East from South Dakota. Paul had made his first foray to the Arctic the previous season and the fishing he experienced at another outpost on Dubawnt Lake was so good that he just had to return. After hearing his stories of battling big trout and viewing unique wildlife species, his wife Barb was up to the challenge of outpost living and chilly fishing conditions. She couldn’t wait to wet a line in the cold, clear waters of Dubawnt. After quickly unpacking our gear, we were soon motoring towards a shallow bay just ten minutes away from the lodge. I knew that it would be a good spot to encounter active lakers seeking warm water - if you consider 40-degree water warm.

As we cruised through the narrows into the main body of the bay, Barb spotted something white moving above a small rock face on the far shore about 400-yards away. It quickly stopped and was indistinguishable from some scattered snow banks that still clung to the rolling tundra. I steered in that direction and the object started moving again as we closed the gap. The large arctic wolf wasn’t overly alarmed as it headed away from us. Casting a few backward glances in our direction, the impressive animal leisurely trotted out of sight beyond a rocky ridge. As we were discussing the surprise encounter, a barren-ground caribou appeared from the general area where the wolf had gone and came running toward our location. The big bull barely slowed as it kicked up spray in the shallows and began swimming across the bay. One day I’d love to clock their speed while in the water as they are amazingly fast swimmers. Barb was thrilled with the wildlife display we witnessed in just the first few minutes of the adventure. “I don’t care if I even catch a fish. Just seeing those animals has already made this trip worthwhile!” she exclaimed.

We didn’t get to prove the veracity of her statement because it didn’t take long for her to experience the vicious strike of a hungry lake trout as we trolled the newly christened Wolf Bay. Paul and Barb’s Dardevle spoons took a beating for the next 90 minutes. Her pink-colored Husky quickly produced several teenage trout in the 10 to 20-pound range. Paul claimed he was “out for quality only” when his wife mentioned she was ahead on the count. Just a few seconds later his hammered-brass junior spoon got nailed. The big trout nearly ripped the rod from his grasp and we knew he was into a dandy. After a ten minute battle, the gleaming 24-pound laker was quickly photographed and released. When he had another solid hook-set a short time later, I fully understood the term “ear-to-ear grin.” While Paul rubbed his hands to get the feeling back after another epic battle with a trophy 27-pound specimen, he noticed something else moving on the shoreline. It turned out to be a pair of muskox bulls, and like most arctic wildlife, they took little heed of the boat as we motored toward them for a closer look. The bulls bedded down behind a knoll not far from shore as I quietly landed the boat on a small gravel beach. We snook up behind the knoll and crawled over the top. The bulls were bedded just fifty yards away and I shot some excellent video of the pair as they soaked up some arctic sunshine. They finally caught on that they had spectators and trotted off, stopping a couple of times to observe that they weren’t being followed.

Time at Tukto

Tukto Lodge has been in business since 1992 when Bob Huittikka bought his first arctic camp at Mosquito Lake, NWT. Bob has been a bush pilot and lodge owner in northern Ontario for nearly four decades. He has always been fascinated by the Arctic, and after sampling the excellent fishing at Mosquito, he bought the only camp on the lake and has since built the bare-bones camp into a popular arctic retreat. The new main lodge features a panoramic view of the arctic scenery and provides guests with various amenities. Huitikka has really made this operation his labor of love and has built new guest cabins and upgraded all the equipment including stable aluminum fishing boats and reliable Honda engines. His hands-on approach to lodge management has made Tukto a favored destination for a very discerning international clientele.

The main camp at Mosquito provides excellent lake trout fishing on the 400-square mile lake, with inflowing and out-flowing river systems teeming with big, hungry arctic grayling that provide lively fights on ultra-light spinning tackle. Many fly-fishermen are enamored with the grayling due to their willingness to gobble a wide variety of presentations and their lively, acrobatic fighting characteristics. Grayling over three pounds are common here, making this region one of the world’s best destinations for these pretty and colorful “sailfish of the north.” Just getting to the best grayling waters is a fun adventure, as skilled guides run stretches of quick rapids by boat to access the pools where the grayling stack up in back eddies. Huge lake trout also lurk in these pools and it’s not uncommon for them to attack a hapless grayling that has taken an angler’s lure. It’s quite a thrill to be fighting a three or four pound fish when a 20-pound or better trout engulfs it.

To keep up with growing demand for lake trout fishing destinations, Huittikka established his first outpost camp on Dubawnt Lake, 100-miles north of his main lodge at Mosquito. This vast water body is the 12th largest lake in North America and stretches nearly 90-miles long by up to 50-miles wide. The main part of the lake can be encased in ice nearly six feet thick into early August, but luckily for avid anglers, the lake’s perimeter is dotted with hundreds of islands and the warmer waters here are usually ice free in early July. It’s a very short season, just five to six weeks long and the trout here feed heavily during this time. The dedicated lake trout fishing fraternity is fairly small, though word of the great fishing on Dubawnt is spreading quickly. Tukto Lodge now operates three outpost camps on this enormous lake, but less than 60 fishermen per year ply its waters to sample the legendary fighting qualities of lean, mean arctic trout. Fish breaking the 40-pound mark are caught here annually but it’s the average size of fish caught that keep dedicated “laker guys” coming back. Most of the trout caught here break the 10-pound mark and trophies over 20-pounds are almost a daily occurrence. Tukto has implemented a strict catch-and-release policy and there are no treble hooks allowed; all lures must utilize single barbless hooks to minimize damage to the fish. Trophies are quickly measured, weighed and released unharmed to fight another day. Small fish can be kept for daily shore lunches and the bright orange flesh of arctic trout is absolutely delicious. Tukto Lodge guides expertly prepare shore lunches each day that are a highlight of many angler’s trips.

When most people think of lake trout fishing in summer, they conjure up images of down-riggers or a host of other techniques to get their lures deep to target trout that seek colder water. In the cold arctic water of Dubawnt, the trout never go deep and can be caught throughout the season in shallow-water. The preferred and most effective method is trolling along rocky points and drop-offs or targeting fish that are suspended over deep water. In the early season, inflowing creeks can provide unbelievable action as the fish are concentrated in these warmer water regions. Large, colorful Dardevle spoons are the most popular lures, but slow-trolled T-60 flatfish also account for many trophies. The right equipment includes 6 ½ to 7-ft. medium/heavy action rods, 17 to 25-lb. line and stout 30 to 50-lb. leaders in the 20 to 30-inch range. Many fishermen opt for quality level-wind reels with line counters that enable them to quickly target the zones where hungry lakers are cruising. It is not uncommon to catch 50 or more hard-fighting trout in a day so quality equipment is a necessity.

The Fish Aren’t the Only things that Bite.

Blue-bird days and calm waters are a rarity in the Arctic. This is a good thing for ardent laker fans because choppy waters seem to trigger lake trout to feed actively. Summer weather can range from 80-degrees to snow squall conditions, so warm, waterproof clothing and footwear are mandatory equipment. Gore-tex “Guideware” suits from Cabela’s are an excellent recommendation for arctic adventures and insulated or pac-type high rubber boots are my own personal choice for footwear. The Arctic is notorious for clouds of mosquitoes and blackflies, hence bug jackets or head-nets are mandatory equipment to keep them at bay. Most days are quite breezy and this helps to keep the bugs away when you are on the water. The amount of biting insects seems daunting at first, but a person soon gets used to them. Many dedicated arctic anglers welcome the bugs because without them, too many people would come here. They claim that, “The clouds of insects keep the riff-raff out and the fishing pressure to a minimum.”

My first trip to this region occurred in 1997 when I was offered a job as a guide at Tukto’s newly opened outpost camp on the northwest corner of Dubawnt Lake. I had always wanted to view unique wildlife species like muskox, barren-ground caribou, and the elusive barren-ground grizzly bear as well as sample the famous arctic lake trout action. The complete absence of trees was disconcerting at first, but I soon learned to appreciate the unique beauty of the arctic landscape, so much so that I now tell people that it sure is nice not to have a bunch of trees cluttering up the view! Like many other visitors to the region I’ve discovered that the Arctic is completely addictive.

Arctic fishing is not always easy. Trophy trout can be elusive at times and it is often a matter of trying different structure, depths, lures and techniques until you find the combination that will put you in the action. The vicious strikes and thrilling fights that are a hallmark of these handsome fish is what makes dedicated laker fans travel to remote, harsh regions to experience one of North America’s most powerful freshwater fish. When you add rare, unique wildlife and plant species, beautiful scenery, experienced guides and plenty of feisty arctic grayling to the mix, you have a recipe for one of North America’s most memorable and exciting angling adventures.

Rob Nye has been a self-described “fishaholic” since his first northern Saskatchewan fishing trip with his family at a very young age. He decided to become a fishing and hunting guide by the age of 12 and took his first job at a fishing resort upon completing high school. He has been a guide and outfitter for 27 years and his articles and photographs of outdoor pursuits have been widely published since 1984.

Bring Your Camera

Tukto is the Innuit word for caribou and these handsome animals are a common sight in the region. In late summer, the caribou begin to gather in herds that can number from 10 to more than 1,000 animals. The north shore of Dubawnt Lake is the southern boundary of the Thelon Game Sanctuary, Canada’s oldest and largest protected area for wildlife. Tukto Lodge guests can view a host of bird and animal species. Snowy owls, peregrine, gyr falcons, and bald and golden eagles target many species of songbirds, willow and rock ptarmigans (arctic grouse) or small game such as Richardson ground squirrels and arctic hare. Predators like arctic and red fox, wolverines, arctic wolves and the magnificent barren-ground grizzly bear call the tundra home. Many people are surprised to encounter moose this far above the tree-line, but they are also commonly seen here. Arctic wildlife species have little fear of humans and can often be approached in close proximity for good viewing. In addition to a high-meg camera, I suggest visitors bring high-powered binoculars.

Early July is actually spring in the Arctic and the ground-hugging tundra plants bloom in a riot of colorful wild flowers. The absence of trees allows a perfect view of the area’s varied and interesting geology that can include sand eskers, vast and rugged boulder fields and fine sand beaches. During the short arctic summer, the sun barely sets and after a day of fishing, the evenings provide plenty of light for hiking, photography junkets or casting from shore for lake trout.

Where To Toss The Bags

Getting to Tukto Lodge is remarkably easy, considering its remote location. Guests travel to Winnipeg, Manitoba, a city with a population of 700,000. International flights arrive and depart daily. Tukto guests stay at the new upscale Four Points Sheraton Hotel connected to the Winnipeg Airport or at the Hilton Suites just two blocks away. Both hotels offer excellent restaurants. Other fine-dining establishments in Winnipeg include, 529 Wellington Steakhouse, Bailey’s Prime Dining and Rae & Jerry’s Steakhouse.

All Tukto guests are met at the airport by Expediters Plus, where their luggage is tagged with Tukto Lodge baggage tags. The expediter can recommend restaurants, casinos, museums or other activities of interest and can arrange transportation to and from the hotel.

On the morning of departure, Expeditors Plus pick up Tukto guests at their hotels by 6:00 a.m. and transport them by bus to the airport. From there a charter plane flies them to the Kasba Lake Airstrip just across the NWT border. They are met by a Tukto representative and quickly board a floatplane for the ride to the main camp at Mosquito Lake, arriving in time for lunch and an afternoon of fine fishing. The simple process is reversed for the return trip to Winnipeg.

Other Notes of Interest

About Nunavut

• Capital: Iqaluit
• Area: 808,190 sq mi
• Population: 31,127 (est.)
• Official Languages: Inuktitut, Inuinnaqtun, English, French
• Government: Constitutional monarchy with a parliamentary democracy
• Religion: Mostly Roman Catholic and Protestant