Tiger Shakes on the Zambezi |
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Tiger ShakeS on the Zambezi
It was not exactly clear what first woke me. Was it the melodic sound of the Lozi Tribe’s women humming as they prepared fresh coffee in the pre-dawn hour, or the peaceful gurgling of the Zambezi River as it glided not more than three feet from the door of my safari tent? In any case...I was awake. Opening the door, allowing the smells and sounds of a restless African morning into my room, I grabbed the flask of coffee that had been quietly placed on my tent veranda a few minutes earlier. As the sun crept over the Zambezi Riverine Forest, tendrils of steam swirled on the water's surface. I sipped my coffee - enjoying the solitude and time it offered me to reflect on the day ahead - before raising my clients. It was the kind of solitude, calmness, and general tranquillity that I knew would be shattered and torn to shards at the first savage strike of the infamous tigerfish.
As is most often the case on fly-fishing trips, my clients were up and ready, eager to get onto the water to test their skills on the mighty Zambezi River. Hydrocynus vittatus, directly translated “Striped Water Dog,” and commonly known as the tigerfish is arguably one of the world’s strongest and definitely the most savage fresh water fly-fishing target. During the months of June through November, fly-fishermen in the know, make their way to the Zambezi and Okavango Rivers in Southern Africa to target these fish, along with a host of other species which call these river systems home. Tackle readied and primed the evening before, and after a quick bite to eat, we boarded our motorized boats. We would be fishing a stretch of productive water 30 minutes upstream from our secluded island camp. From June through August (the dry winter months), the warmer waters of the upper Zambezi flood plains recede and flow back into the main Zambezi channel, bringing vast quantities of recently spawned baitfish flushed from the relative safety of their nurseries. Tigerfish and numerous predatory bream are aware of this phenomenon and feed aggressively during these months. Over the past 10 years, we have developed a range of flies that accurately imitate the predominant baitfish in the area, these being mainly barbs and minnows. By tying flies that accurately imitate the baitfish washed-off the plains, fly-fishermen commonly out-fish lure-fishermen by 10 or more to one. As with most baitfish imitations, size, colour and profile are the key factors considered in fly design. Variations of Clousers, Rabbit Zonker baitfish patterns and Whistlers are the common patterns used. Most flies are tied on #2 stinger hooks. Productive colours are black, black over grey, black over red, grey over yellow and fire tiger. Most commercially tied patterns are tied far too full with excess flash. Sparsely tied flies with minimal or no flash are the order of the day here. Speckled Banks and Ruby Rises:We had been driving for roughly 20 minutes. The flood plains flanking the main Zambezi channel were beginning to widen. In some places sprawling up to 8 miles from the river banks. Rounding a bend, in the distance, I could see the grassy banks speckled an agitated white. Egrets! But not just any egrets; egrets feeding on helpless baitfish being swept over the lip of the huge flood plain into the hostile environments of the main Zambezi channel. Giving the birds a wide berth, I cut the motor 200 yards upstream from the activity. It was crunch time! With my clients taking up their positions on the stern, we began our drift into the hot zone. DI 7 lines (fast-sinking full-length fly lines) are the standard on this system. Getting a fly down, and keeping it in the strike zone is imperative when targeting trophy tigerfish on the Zambezi. Casts are made up and across towards the banks or productive looking structure. Allowing the line to sink to a good depth, retrieves are started as the line swings through ninety degrees.
With the fish back in the water, seemingly heading to the Indian Ocean, John began to resemble a fly-fisherman with some form of composure. A couple more heart-stopping jumps and deep runs near the boat and a wonderful 11-pound tiger was brought to net. While posing for a quick photograph, I noticed John’s trembling limbs. A wonderful phenomenon many of us live for, and what I fondly call, “The Tiger Shakes” - the adrenalin induced stupor anglers are left in after battling these brutes of the Zambezi. The following couple of hours produced some of the finest fly-fishing I have had the privilege to guide in. Both clients landed a handful of trophy fish. Many more were lost. The frustration felt by the anglers clearly showed at times. With a hook up to landing ratio of roughly five to one, landing trophy tigerfish can put a severe dent in ones angling ego if luck is against you. Having your fly repeatedly spat back at you by trophy tigers, in some cases even landing back in the boat, is a humbling experience. The Smoke SettlesWith frayed nerves, burnt stripping gloves and hungry stomachs, we enjoyed lunch on a nearby sand bank. It was decided to give the tigers a break that afternoon and target nembwe instead - an aggressive large-mouth predatory bream species found on the upper Zambezi and Okavango Rivers. They are ambush predators, preferring structure from which to attack their prey. Hence the angling methods employed when targeting these fish are fairly technical, with accurate casts tight into structure crucial for success. The combination of technical fishing, the nembwe’s bullish fighting tendencies, and their glorious emerald colouring, place it high up on the Zambezi want-to-catch list. They are also a superb eating fish – with the occasional one kept for evening bar snacks around the camp fire. Targeting nembwe on fly however, requires an article in itself. After a few hiccups, we managed to boat a couple of these beautiful fish, and in doing so, taking two of the three species which together form the Zambezi Slam - the third being the sharp-tooth catfish - a tough, albeit not so glamorous contender. There was no doubt as to what awoke me on the last day of our safari. The unmistakable sound of a heavy line being ripped off the water as John battled to roll-cast a heavy Clouser into the Ilombe Channel flowing outside his tent. Watching silently through the mosquito gauze of my tent window, I wondered whether I should offer any advice since there was a more accessible spot just 20-meters downstream that often held big fish in a deep swirling eddy. Not wanting to wake the other guests, I decided to leave it for a couple of minutes and observe. I was pleased to watch John roll out a good 15-meter cast up across the current. He waited patiently for his line to sink and swing around. It must have happened on the swing as he had yet to begin his retrieve. The loose line was forcefully yanked through his fingers. His body contorted as he hopped around clearing the line at his feet. A big loop of DI 7 line shot up and wrapped around his rod butt. In a futile attempt to get some slack in the line, John pushed his rod forward. I have been a character in this scenario many times, and waited for the painful ending. He then lent out even further, urging the fish to turn. The end came quickly. The sickening twang of parted leader put an end to the chaos. John stood motionless, aware he had just been beat by a very worthy adversary. I watched as his trembling hands attempted to rectify the guilty tangle of line around his rod butt. There was no doubt he was suffering a severe case of ‘tiger shakes.’ I walked out to him, offering him a cup of strong coffee. He looked up at me shaking his head saying, “No thanks. I’ve just been thrashed by a solid fish right here, and the extra caffeine might well put me over the edge.” I nodded knowingly. The tiger shakes had a firm grip on him. The prognosis? For some, it’s a curse that results in countless restless nights and unproductive days in the office while for others it’s a disease where seeking the cure brings countless adventures, new friendships and wonderful places. Welcome to the Zambezi. Keith Clover has been guiding fly-fishing safaris throughout South and East Africa since the age of 18. He has an honours degree in Animal Science, is a qualified field guide and a recognized fly-fishing author, writing for Africa’s leading fly-fishing and travel publications. Where To Toss The BagsThe easiest way to fish the upper Zambezi is to fly into Johannesburg, South Africa. There are daily regional flights from Johannesburg on both British Airways and Nationwide Airlines to Livingstone Airport in Zambia. As the gateway to the upper Zambezi, it is advisable to spend a day and night in Livingstone to experience the multitude of activities this small town has to offer. The Royal Livingstone Hotel is a firm favorite and a mere stones-throw from the Falls. Other world class options include the Tongabezi and The River Club.
Popular options include: Upper Zambezi Island Camp Impalila Island Lodge Ntwala Lodge Anglers based at the above mentioned lodges are offered the opportunity to game view from their fishing boats. The average tourist to the area is only able to view wild animals from open game viewing vehicles, fighting the 10 other telephoto lenses on the drive. For fly-fishermen, it is advisable to either join a guided group or book the services of a reputable guide as most lodges in the area do not employ permanent fly-fishing guides. For up to date information, lodge bookings and professional guiding, contact: enquiries@tourettefishing.com Bring Your CameraMost groups will spend at least one day, or part thereof, viewing game in the Chobe National Park. With daily sightings of four of the big five (lion, leopard, buffalo and elephant), anglers visiting the Zambezi are afforded a variety of wildlife photo opportunities. Cultural tours to the local Zambia villages allow guests the opportunity to interact with the community and offer assistance by donating books or building materials for schools and clinics. For the adventurous, outings to the local Shabeens (informal drinking taverns frequented by the local tribesmen) can be arranged.
Nature walks with local Zambia guides will open your eyes to the rich resources the African bush offers those who depend on it for subsistence. From the sticky “chewing gum tree” sap, a local delicacy, to elephant dung mosquito repellent, the African bush is wonderfully productive in all her intricacies. The local craft markets are not to be missed. Large items will be shipped to overseas addresses for a small cost. Impressive hardwood ornaments provide great décor for a game room or bar. The Zambezi sunsets are world famous and provide the perfect backdrop for your last cast of the day or a cold sundowner. Other Notes of InterestAbout ZambiaFor additional information visit: www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/2359.htm |
Circling Victoria Falls, a natural Wonder of the World, the afternoon prior, I was pleased to notice what looked like a healthy drop in water levels. Gauging by a mark left on the submerged tree stump outside my tent, my aerial observations were affirmed. From a nearby Ilala palm, the unmistakable call of a Huguenots robin brought me back to the present. I rose from my veranda chair and made my way toward the client’s tents. The glowing red light emanating from the “Donkey-Boilers” (wood-fire heated geysers) along the pathway, cast shadows on huge crinkled tracks in the sand. It was clear the island’s resident elephants had passed during the night, most probably snacking on the nutrient rich Acacia tree seed pods. 
My heart rate began to increase as we neared the productive stretch of feeding birds. The tell-tail swirl and occasional ruby flash of tigerfish tails were a clear indication of the action taking place below the surface. I waited for the unmistakable shrieks of an angler being smashed by a savage strike. It must have been John’s fifth cast of the morning. His copper Clouser was sent out on a somewhat clumsy cast. Following instructions and resisting the urge to begin stripping immediately, he let his line sink and straighten. Once satisfied that his fly was at the correct depth, John began retrieving it with long positive strips. Turning briefly to check our drift, I heard a muffled grunt indicative of a fly-fisherman having just connected with something solid. Spinning around towards the sound, I glimpsed shear panic in John’s eyes. Shouting instructions to keep his rod tip pointed to the fish, I watched as the life-like line jumped and popped off the deck looking for a reel-butt or digit to wrap on. As the line cleared the deck and the reel’s drag engaged, the enraged tiger cleared the water in a typical head-shaking attempt to rid itself of the fly. Now this is the point at which at least 50% of tigers are lost. Their hard bony mouths make it nearly impossible to penetrate with a fly rod. Solid strip-strikes pointed directly to the fish with super sharp stinger hooks are the only way for an angler to find some form of purchase in the fly-unfriendly environment that is a tiger’s mouth.
The following four days were spent in much the same fashion. Tigerfish were given the majority of our attention, with nembwe and the lesser known species of thin-faced largemouth and African pike throwing some variation into the mix. No visit to Africa however, would be complete without taking time away from the fishing to enjoy the rich assortment of game and bird life. We spent a day viewing game in the world-renowned Chobe National Park in neighbouring Botswana, a 45 minute boat trip from the lodge. The Chobe National Park, covering an area of 10,566 square kilometres, has one of the greatest concentrations of big-game found on the African continent. A major feature of Chobe National Park is its elephant population, currently estimated at around 120,000. During the dry winter months of June to August (prime tigerfishing season), large herds of elephant and cape buffalo gather along the banks of the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers offering superb viewing opportunities.
There are two options to fish the upper Zambezi, either land based (generally on small islands below the flood plains), within luxury lodges, or aboard water based luxury houseboats. These options are open year-round, so it is advisable to book through a reputable operator to ensure you visit and fish the area at the correct time of year. 
