Big Bow Trout

This Canadian outpost makes dreams come true for those seeking trophy rainbows and browns. Long before I owned my first fiberglass fly rod, I camped in front of the black-and-white Emerson boob tube in my parent’s living room every Saturday morning like clockwork.

My favorite show entailed fishing, with Curt Gowdy as host. It revealed a variety of styles and places I’d never seen, and one episode included Canada’s Bow River with the city of Calgary in the background. I’ve never forgotten that show.

How could Gowdy fish for big trout in the middle of a city, I wondered? Cities involve business, wining and dining, buildings and such, not pursuing big, beautiful rainbows and browns. Even with a plentiful population estimated at 1,800 trout per mile in the Bow River, I still watched in amazement as Gowdy and his guests caught fish after fish.

Fast forward decades later, and I’m living my dream to cast a fly here, although Calgary has grown many times the size of the city I’d seen on TV. Trout were still there, right smack dab in the middle of the fastest-growing city in North America. In fact, I discovered only recently on a return trip that even more spectacular trout water surrounds Calgary on the upper Bow River. This segment, which is seemingly rarely fished by visiting sportsmen, offers unreal mountain scenery, lots of wildlife, a perfect summer climate and big, 20-inch-plus wild fish. Best of all, you own it – you rarely see another angler all day.

Keep in mind that “all day” is a relative term in Alberta’s summer; you can fish in daylight for about 20 hours straight, although only diehards do so.

It’s quite easy to get sidetracked because of all the interesting attractions and activities, the varied wildlife, mountain sports and great dining opportunities – all just down the road from where you fish. Same holds true for the nearby town of Canmore where I love fishing parts of the upper Bow without leaving city comforts.

The Lower Bow

Even as you fish through downtown Calgary, you don’t have to watch your back cast for fear of putting a scratch on a new Benz. Most of the river is a park-like setting with a lot of flow and breadth. A majority of the float trips take place south of the city and away from the traffic.

My first experience floating the lower Bow involved a group of anglers who hailed from Montana. They included a fellow who’s one of Montana’s senior trout guides, a man who owns a fly shop and yet another is an old friend of mine. We stayed on the lower section of the water to the southeast of the city, floating and fishing only the lower stretches of the river.

Most of the time we made long casts with grasshopper flies or the invincible Fat Albert, a brown, two-tone foam hopper pattern. I also learned something important about fishing this part of the Bow as opposed to the upper sections: The effect of heavy summer rains, which can muddy up the water a lot more and seriously drop the hook-up rate can’t be discounted.

We alternately waded and fished from a drifting boat to nab beautiful rainbows and an occasional brown trout – some nice fat ones over 20 inches in length. One interesting note about these fish is that they resemble steelheads with a silver color and very little in the way of the more typical red markings on rainbow trout.

I absolutely love the solitude. We floated for a long, 14-hour fishing day and saw one other drift boat the entire time. Amazingly, we all caught about the same amount of fish each day, with 12 to 15 releases. It seemed like one of us had a fish on the line every 10 or 15 minutes, with little break in the action.

On one occasion we did an aluminum jet boat float, which zipped us in and out of productive fishing grounds in a hurry. Once at an inviting location, two of us would get positioned on fishing pedestals on the bow while the guide rowed in the center and directed us into the fish. At the end of the float, our guide fired up the jet and we roared back up the river to the put-in – a different experience and a satisfying finale to an exciting day.

Upper Bow Browns

While many choose to fish the Bow south of Calgary, on my most recent visit I instead decided to check out the stream less traveled. Driving about an hour due west on Canada 1, I based this trip in Canmore, a historic mining town that’s become the Aspen of the Canadian Rockies and served as the site of the 1988 Winter Olympic Games. Construction can be seen everywhere hereabouts, but not at the expense of losing its appeal and charm.

I felt most fortunate to hook up with John Samms of Mountain Fly Fishers in Canmore. John turned out to be not only a consummate fly fisher, but he also heads Tourism Canmore, so I found the perfect source to guide me around town and on the river too.

“There’s been a history of outdoor writers missing out on the fishing up here,” John said. “I’m not sure why. Some evidently believe there’s no insect life on this part of the river, and that just isn’t the case.”

Being a skeptical journalist, I wanted to see for myself. I’d never fished for trout out of a bass boat, but that’s what John uses to cover the most water.

We set out late in the day after a tour of local Canmore village sites, the incredible new homes being built and the spring creek that runs right through town. About an hour later, we were in the water and rigging up some 4- and 6-weight rods to search for big browns.

John turned out to be right. We hit on good fish within 20 minutes, using streamers along the bank. This area is best fished in the late afternoon and as long into the evening as you can see your fly, which in July is after 11 p.m. We’re talking here about fat and happy browns that look like submarines when hooked and can put up long fights at times. They’re not normally jumpers, however.

We made a fast track back to Canmore, and I silently thanked myself for exploring a portion of the Bow River many – unfortunately for them – never see. On my next trip to this gorgeous region of Alberta, Canada, I want to try the Kananaskis Lakes, Spray Lake and Bow tributaries, the Elk and Oldman rivers, all of which remarkably continue to remain seldom fished. I’ve been told that more rainbows, brooks and bulls will be patiently awaiting my return – maybe even some grayling.

The Royal Treatment

If you think you’ve done it all, here’s a unique experience only a few fishermen will ever enjoy. Twice each summer, the Royal Canadian Pacific (www.royalcanadianpacific.com) rail company takes fly anglers on a one-week guided rail and fishing journey in a private train of restored antique rail cars, complete with a private chef and deluxe accommodations that have been enjoyed by real royalty.

It’s been called the world’s most lavish train, entertaining the likes of Winston Churchill, Franklin D. Roosevelt and Queen Elizabeth, to name just a few. One look inside and it’s easy to see why.

These cars are handcrafted of the most luxurious woods, fabrics and inlaid materials from around the world. Each compartment offers its own bath and full bed and the kind of furnishings you’d expect in a five-star hotel.

The adventure begins when you arrive in Calgary and get chauffeured to the famous Fairmount Palliser Hotel and then a private reception in the Canadian Pacific Railway Pavilion and dinner in the historic Rimrock Dining Room.

You’ll fish the lower Bow the first day, then board the train for dinner prepared by your private chef while the train travels to Cowley for an overnight stop.

The next day, you’ll fish the Oldman River and then dine in the historic dining car overlooking Summit Lake. Catch wild cutthroats the next day or maybe a bull trout before dinner, and then a stay at Crowsnest Pass. The final day’s fishing is on the Elk River. Guests enjoy a guided float and overnight on the train in Golden. The final day is a leisurely sight-seeing trip through Banff National Park including the Spiral Tunnels.

Unique to say the least, the Royal’s fly-fishing adventure caters to the few who can afford it. Then again, few opportunities exist where one can fish for large, plentiful trout in the some of the most beautiful mountains in the world while on a magic carpet made of steel.

Atlanta-based Greg McCluney is a freelance food, wine, travel and outdoor writer who’s been fly fishing mostly for trout for over 20 years. In between assignments, he enjoys walking down the street to fish Georgia’s Chattahoochee River.

Bring Your Camera

If you’re traveling with the family, Calaway Park is highly recommended. Canada’s largest outdoor amusement park with 32 rides, 24 games and shows rates as big fun and a full day’s amusement (www.calawaypark.com).

History buffs will want to visit Fort Calgary

(www.fortcalgary.com), which offers stories and interactive displays of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police and Calgary’s settlement through interactive displays. Also consider Canada’s largest Living Historical Village, Heritage Park (www.heritagepark.ca) on 66 acres near the Glenmore Reservoir, where folks bring western Canada to life as it used to be.

I highly recommend the annual Calgary Stampede (www.calgarystampede.com) in early July each year. Ten days of rodeo-style events from chuck wagon races to a dazzling midway with live entertainment and casino action – it’s a citywide celebration. The Stampede probably won’t affect your fishing but airline reservations, restaurants and hotel rooms will be scarce and higher priced than usual.

A must-see is the incredible mountain scenery and lakes of Banff National Park (www.pc.gc.ca/banff), the origin of the Bow River. As in just about all national parks, you can fish here. Majestic mountain scenery and sapphire-blue glacial lakes, wild game restaurants, ice fields, abundant wildlife and luxury resorts populate the landscape from Canmore to Jasper National Park. Every conceivable mountain sports activity is available, from horseback riding, hiking, rock climbing and rafting to wildlife tours, boating and heli-trips over the glaciers.

Where To Toss The Bags

Whether you drive or fly to Calgary, you can of course find many choices of accommodations. I’d recommend Kensington Riverside Inn right on the river on the lower Bow. We couldn’t stay there, as we booked during the Calgary Stampede, a mid-July timeframe you might want to avoid. However, it’s a great rodeo party, and a sportsman could take in some events and fish too without being crowded much on the river.

The Bow River Lodge sits on a very fishable stretch of the lower river about 30 miles south of Calgary, offering comfortable accommodations with all meals included. For historic grandeur, the 100-year-old Fairmount in the downtown area is a great place.

Just outside Canmore and also on the Bow River, the Kananaskis River Guest Ranch is a great experience. Consider the Canmore Hotel in the center of town, particularly if you’re with a spouse who loves to shop because you’ll find souvenir stores galore nearby. For modern luxury, you won’t be disappointed with the condos at Fire Mountain Lodge.

Calgary boasts every cuisine and level of sophistication in dining you would expect in a large international city, from fast food to fine French restaurants. We enjoyed the bison and seafood at Bistro Twenty Two Ten close to our hotel downtown, and likewise at the more innovative, organic cuisine of River Café at Prince Island Park. Steak lovers should drop into Caesar’s Steak House, a Calgary tradition with two locations for great Canadian beef and all the usual accompaniments.

A sampling of night life can be experienced at the Stephen Avenue Mall area on 17th Avenue, known by locals as The Red Mile.

Canmore doesn’t lack for character and good dining either. Canmore’s village atmosphere is a great place to walk and review menus as you shop, browse art galleries and absorb the majestic mountain scenery. There’s a restaurant and price point for all travelers, with most cuisines represented and plenty of fast food options. We particularly enjoyed two outstanding and unusual finds in the village itself: Zona’s, a most unusual and tasty international bistro, and The Trough which might be, depending on your tastes, an even better eatery – don’t pass up their Balsamic Lamb Shank.

Other Notes Of Interest

About Canada

• Official Name: Canada
• Area: 9,984,670 square kilometers or 2,854,085 square miles, making it the world’s second largest country; a federation composed of 10 provinces and 3 territories
• Capital: Ottawa, with Toronto the largest city
• Government: Constitutional monarchy with a parliamentary democracy
• Population: 33,010,700
• Religion: Mostly Roman Catholic (46%) and Protestant (36%)
• Languages: English and French
• Currency: Canadian Dollar (1CAD = $.95US)