Good Times Off Grenada

The Caribbean’s Island of Spice serves up tasty big-game fishing opportunities. The aggressive sailfish came up in the spread and first struck the far port outrigger lure, the biggest bait behind the boat. It didn’t know – and cared not – that it hit the huge 12 1/2-inch Moldcraft Wide Range we trolled in the hopes of attracting a blue marlin.

Bait in mouth, the fish popped the clip as it shot through the boat wake and across the spread like a rocket. Suddenly, a second lure popped from the clip on that side. The mates screamed “double, double” as one mate rushed to the outrigger rod, and the other hustled to clear the cockpit of rods. Captain Graeme Cearman, better known by his nickname Captain Badger, figured we faced a double-header, and he called on me to put down the camera and grab the second rod. The mate turned to hand me the rod just as the line went slack – no fish.

The choppy seas and white caps knocked the lures around a bit, and the tangle meant a lost opportunity for me.

My friend Shaun Diehl still faced a battle with a large sailfish. It grey-hounded away from the boat and then battled mostly below the surface. The sail, estimated to be 70 pounds, jumped three or four times and wore out in about 10 minutes. Shaun cranked it to the boat and when the fish appeared at the stern, we noticed the second lure indeed tangled in the leader. Controlling the fish by the bill, one mate slid it into the cockpit through the transom door. The captain moved quickly to place a tag in it.

After removing the hook, both mates slid the fish into the boat’s wake for a little rejuvenation. It soon kicked away and quickly swam off in perfect shape. Captain Badger mused that it’s highly unusual for a sailfish hereabouts to go for a marlin bait.

“I put that lure in the spread to act as a sailfish teaser as much as to entice a marlin,” he said, noting other smaller lures sported ballyhoo.

A total of six lures in our diamond-shaped spread focused on sailfish and tuna. We trolled a smaller lure off each outrigger about 25 yards back, and two more small ones with ballyhoo skipped on the choppy seas on flat lines from the corners of the cockpit. We fished another lure off the fighting-chair rod so it ran beside the teaser on a very short line.

The captain’s shotgun rig normally places the mid-size lure 60- to 100-yards back depending on the seas and the intended species. On relatively calm waters that morning, the shotgun rig for these fall sails were placed at the maximum distance. In choppier waters or when focusing on marlin, Captain Badger shortens the line down the middle from the fly bridge. The marlin spread also changes slightly in the cooler months, using six larger baits with mostly 80-pound tackle and a couple of 130s.

“When after marlin, we try to make as much commotion behind the boat as possible,” said Badger. “We troll big lures that generate rooster tails behind them and mirrored teasers that reflect the sun’s rays.”

Grenada (pronounced Gruh-NAY-da) offers consistent shots at a number of big-game fish. Yellowfin tuna wreaked havoc during the time I fished there, but we only saw one school at a distance. They went down before we could troll up to them. We circled a couple of times and the tuna never came back to the surface. After a couple of hours trolling a glassy surface with only the one sighting of a school of tuna, Captain Badger noticed through his binoculars a very strong wind break with white caps heading right for us. In only a few minutes trolling into the newly found choppy waters, the sail action took place. Such is the hide-and-seek game of fishing.

Captain Badger said that he took a 195-pound yellowfin a few days before. A friend of his on another charter nailed many big ones, including a huge 215-pounder. Normally when a good round of tuna action is found off Grenada, it continues for a couple of weeks. Badger recounted a recent trip when his four anglers hooked a quadruple – the three tuna ultimately landed weighed between 120 and 140 pounds. They finished out that windy day with two additional big yellowfins including a nice 160-pounder.

Ideal sea conditions for Grenada fishing will generally entail five-foot waves. That’s a little rough for the average offshore angler perhaps, but just right for active fish. To deter entanglements and present the lures better, baits should be trolled more slowly in seas in excess of three feet. Captain Badger runs his 38-foot Surf-n-Turf charter boat at around 6 1/2 knots in rougher water – about the same speed when the big sailfish hit the marlin lure and we missed the other.

A Chipper Skipper

Captain Badger certainly fits in nicely with the Grenada fishing circles. Formerly from the UK with 25 years of billfishing experience and four-years-plus operating his charter boat in Grenada waters, in 2006 he earned the Top Release Angler honors in the Spice Island Billfish Tournament. He proudly boasts of catching a marlin every month of the year off this small Caribbean island.

Speaking of the Spice Island Billfish Tournament, the event attracts boats from nearby islands such as Trinidad & Tobago, Barbados, St. Lucia and Martinique as well as anglers from all over the world. The next (39th) event kicks off this January 16. Tournament records include a 669-pound blue marlin, a white marlin of 82 pounds, a 77.6-pound sailfish, a yellowfin tuna weighing 173 pounds, a 66-pound wahoo and the top dolphin so far at 51.2 pounds. Spearfish up to 100 pounds and blackfin tuna nearing 50 pounds may also be taken.

Badger’s boat records and the Grenada island records push the bar a bit higher in many cases, which gives an idea of what anglers can tangle with hereabouts. A guest on the Surf-n-Turf bested a 720-pound blue marlin, and the island record stands at 870 pounds. This past August, a blue marlin grander estimated at 1,200 pounds pulled the hook at the last minute, and a long-liner brought in one that tipped the scale at 1,400 pounds.

The captain’s best white marlin is a huge 85-pounder, with a giant of 125 representing the Grenada record. His clients’ top sailfish weighed 100 pounds, and his biggest yellowfin tuna topped the scales at 225 pounds with the island record at 290 pounds. Badger’s top wahoo weighed 56 pounds and the Grenada top mark equals 107. The island record for a dolphin stands at an amazing 75-pound super slammer.

I really like the fact that Badger emphasizes billfish tag-and-release fishing, and his gaffing and tagging sticks support such. He’s taught the mates the best ways to release fish to ensure they survive, and other charter operators also embrace a good conservation ethic.

Topography and Timing

Grenada, the most southerly of the Windward Islands, seems ideally situated for shots at trophy-size fish. The three main islands that make up the nation state of Grenada include Grenada itself, Carriacou (the largest of the Grenadines and pronounced Carry-a-KOO), and Petit Martinique (Pet-tee Mar-tee-NEEK). They lie just north of Venezuela. Its location within the southern equatorial current near the South American mainland accounts for the large numbers of billfish; they chase the prey that sweeps by the island.

The two main circular currents on the leeward side of the island come together at Molinair Point. Sometimes sailfish can be found there close to shore in the pockets and eddies barely half a mile offshore. Captain Badger kite fishes for sails off Molinair Point frequently and uses a couple of wind drag anchors to slow the drift of his boat. One day recently he took 15 sailfish from the southwestern side of the island, and at one point experienced a four-fish hook-up.

The best sailfish activity occurs on the Caribbean (western) side from November through March. Dolphin can be caught year-round although the larger specimens will be found January through August. Tuna also lurk around Grenada throughout the year, wahoo bite every month with the slowest period in summer.

“The week before a full moon through three days after is the best period for billfish,” says Badger. “The breaks off the island run 3,000 and 6,000 feet. Some of the top spots include the shoals on the east and west sides on the island. Reindeer Shoal is a shallow one off the southern tip of the island and it’s always productive for some kind of fish. From the island of Bequi south to Grenada, the topography looks pretty much like a shelf.”

The Atlantic (eastern) side of Grenada, a continental shelf averaging 15 fathoms out to 15 miles, drops off quickly after that and many marlin can be found there. Prime time for blue marlin runs December to April and white marlin – abundant and often mixed in with sailfish – from November through January.

When trolling the eastern side of the island, Badger’s Surf-n-Turf starts at the 2,000-foot break and trolls 20 miles up and returns down the island, moving out each time on a 1/4-mile grid. The east side of the island can be too rough during winter months, but the west side offers a bit more protection. An underwater volcano off the northern tip of the island called Kick ‘em Jenny can be another good hot spot due to the shelf around it.

To further enhance the fishing off Grenada, the dedicated captain places several personal fish attracting devices (FADs) in the water about three times each year. The FADs normally last a few months and prove productive for Badger’s clients. After a few months, many of the buoys sink due to the massive weight of flying fish eggs deposited on them.

You don’t need access to a FAD, however. Just two weeks before my trip a big storm left lots of debris in the water. The captain and friends located a 70-foot tree with base roots still attached, and they trolled by it. They immediately enjoyed a triple on dolphin and decided to just tie up to the floating cover. In the following three hours they caught and released dozens of dolphin up to 25 pounds and two nice wahoo. But big-time action like that’s not uncommon around the little island of Grenada in the Caribbean Sea.

Larry Larsen, an inductee into the Fishing Hall of Fame, often fishes the Caribbean islands to discover new hot spots. The author of 21 books including Fish & Dive the Caribbean, he’s a frequent contributor to many publications and a member of the Society of American Travel Writers and other media groups.

Where To Toss The Bags

American Airlines flies daily to Grenada from San Juan, Puerto Rico. It’s apparent upon arriving that the island is experiencing major development which will offer wider choices of accommodations. English entrepreneur Peter de Savary wants to make Grenada the Caribbean’s top getaway for travelers, and he’s investing over half a billion dollars into hotels, residential and commercial developments.

The Mount Cinnamon Villas and Apartments lie on a hillside right in front of Grand Anse, Grenada’s famous, two-mile sheltered beach. The completed Mount Cinnamon Beach Club is part of the beach property that will soon add a 125-room hotel to the 31 villas on the hill.

After checking into my luxury apartment, a tour of the property revealed lush tropical landscaping, the Mount Cinnamon clubhouse with its courtyard pool, terrace lounge and the Savvy Italian restaurant. There’s also a gym, spa treatment rooms and tennis courts. My villa included a washer/dryer, high-speed internet and vibrant furnishings. From my outdoor patio each morning I witnessed stunning ocean and cascading city views – very refreshing.

Rising high above St. George’s on the outer edge of the horseshoe bay, Port Louis Grenada enjoys a beautiful view of the harbor and lagoon. This new development includes a multi-million dollar resort and spa village that sits on the ancient crater lagoon. Underway is a world-class marina with 350 slips (most of the fixed docks are complete) and yachting facilities for 300 yachts up to 280 feet. Also coming soon will be 36 estate lots for individual houses, 200 residential homes and village apartments, a 120-room 5-star hotel and a premier spa.

Revitalization of the southern end of the lagoon area, including the reclamation and renovation of the waterfront, is well underway. The marina bulkhead seawall and several buildings/shops including the Victory Bar and Grill are now complete. When finalized, the Port Louis development will offer a vibrant market with a waterfront of activities that will be the place to be as a yachting center in the southern Caribbean.

De Savary’s additional outposts will include Tufton Hall, an ancient plantation high in the tropical rainforest to be restored with a unique eco-spa. Mount Edgecombe Plantation involves a restoration and revival of a traditional Grenadian working plantation. From the plantation, my friends and I enjoyed hiking the grounds, visiting the gardens and swimming in the two infinity pools overlooking Grenada’s beautiful western coastline. For more details visit www.portlouisgrenada.com and www.mountcinnamongrenada.com.

Dining out is a most delectable activity in Grenada. I enjoyed excellent dinners at Savvy’s and also the quaint Water’s Edge Restaurant at Bel Air Plantation, Laluna Restaurant and BB’s Crabback on the Carenage overlooking the colorful St. George’s harbor.

Captain Badger’s Grenada Sportfishing Charter operation out of St. George’s handles up to six anglers at $800 per day and $500 for a half day. For more details, visit www.grenadasportfishing.com/index.html.

Bring Your Camera

Exotic and beautiful, Grenada’s dramatic West Indies scenery includes lush tropical forests, waterfalls and beautiful beaches. Climbing, river tubing, mountain biking, surfing, sailing, diving and snorkeling, open-air dining and sight-seeing are all part of this island.

I visited Grand Etang National Park and its crater lake and rainforest hiking trails, and fed bananas to one of the monkeys. A few miles away, I also took a short hike to photograph Annandale Falls, one of the island’s most beautiful. Bring your bathing suit to take a cold freshwater swim there. Other interesting waterfalls on the island include Concord Falls, Seven Sisters and the recently discovered Victoria Falls.

Known as the Isle of Spice, Grenada’s economy features nutmeg, cloves, mace, cocoa, cinnamon, ginger and more. Visitors should check out the interesting Belmont Estate. I toured the fully functioning cocoa plantation on the north side of the island. There I learned about cocoa bean processing for making chocolate as well as the variety of spices and vegetable products they harvested and processed.

Touring St. George’s historic Fort George, the colorful and noisy market square, and Carenage, the inner harbor waterfront with its Georgian and colonial architecture offers many interesting photo opportunities; same with touring a rum distillery such as the Westerhall. A separate jaunt to the fishing village of Gouyave and a snorkeling trip to the world’s first underwater sculpture park provides subjects for images both above and beneath the water.

Small islands between Grenada and Carriacou offer uncrowded beaches with coral reefs surrounding them. In the winter and spring, over 15 species of whales may be seen in these waters.

Other Notes of Interest

Grenada

• Official Name: Grenada
• Government: Constitutional monarchy
• Capital: St. George’s
• Area: 344 square kilometers or 133 square miles, with a length of 21 miles and width of 12
• Population: 103,000
• Beaches: 45 white sand and nine black sand
• Resources: Grenada is the only spice-producing area in the Western Hemisphere.
• Weather: The island’s two distinct seasons are dry (January through May) and rainy (June through December).
• Language: English
• Religion: Mostly Roman Catholic
• Electricity: 220 volts, 50 cycles (adaptors needed)
• Currency: East Caribbean Dollar (1USD = 2.67XCD)